Browning A5 friction ring?

[Sideways]

My grandfather gave me his Browning A5 auto (Magnum version) awhile back and I am just getting around to going over it so I can take it out and shoot it.
According to the owners manual on the Browning website, the positioning of the friction rings is critical to the recoil if shooting 3in shells and different if using 2 3/4 shells.
Does anyone have any actual pictures of an A5 friction rings set up to shoot 3in magnum loads?

The website is a bit confusing to me and I want to make sure I'm setting it up correctly.
Thanks

 

[BlackBart]

I have an old 1938 version 2 3/4 inch chamber BUT there are two ways the rings will work. If I have it set up for heavy loads it won't cycle the action if I shoot a field load. Try it with light loads and see if it cycles, if it does you might want to go the other way and try again. The Browning site has pics if I recall correctly, go step by step.

 

[bigjohn]

actually 3 settings. one for the factory cutts guns.

 

[leroygibbs]

here's the mangnum manual, with a pic

http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/auto5_mag_2up_s.pdf

 

[balttigger]

Depending on how old it is you might also wanna consider replacing the springs. The old springs have been under tension a long time and may have compressed a little, which will lead to more felt recoil. It's not that expensive to go to Brownells or e-GunParts and get new ones. Did that for my Auto-5 16ga and it made a WORLD of difference.

 

[circleshooter]

I've been lusting after an A5 myself for a while and now that I have a Citori XT on layaway it's next on the "wanted list." It's just an absolute classic and a sweet shooter. I've done a fair bit of reading and just about everything I've read mentions that periodically replacing the springs, friction piece and retainer ring is the way to go - especially if it's been sitting. You can find these rebuild kits in a number of places and most will include a diagram to show you how to set up the friction piece for heavy or light loads.

Most of the kits are about $60 and contain:
(1)Friction Ring, (1)Friction Piece Bronze, (1)Friction Spring, (1)Recoil Spring, (1)Magazine Spring, (1)Magazine Spring Retainer, (1)Action Spring, and (1)Forearm Schematic Insert.

 

[Jerry M]

I would not buy any replacement part until you get someone to look at the ring placement. I recall that they had to be positioned a certain way to function with the magnum shells and another way to work with target loads. Any gunsmith worth his salt should be able to show you. They are not common any more. But they made several million of them.

Good luck

Jerry

 

[Goose Guy]

The way I set my A-5 Magnum 12 up is (with the butt end on the table upright):

reciever, spring, steel ring, brass ring, barrel.
Hope that helps.


Used to have 2 sets of rings, but it was jamming and stovepiping too frequently. Removed one set and put them...somewhere. Never cared to find them again. I mainly shoot 3" Winchester Super X shells or Remmington Nitros for goose hunting. Almost never jams and recoil is manageable. If I can remember, I'll take a picture when I get the chance. Just make sure you don't put the steel ring in upside down. Final note, I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but I make sure the end of the spring and the notch in the brass ring are on opposite sides of the mag tube.

 

[Goose Guy]

Here you go:

 

[Sideways]

Awesome, thanks for the responses.
The best I can tell the gun is currently set up for light loads with the one friction ring.
My grandfather does not have the other rings and I have been researching online about replacing the springs so purchasing the spring kit is in the near future.

If things work out (honey do list ) I might take the gun out this weekend and shoot it, as is.

Thanks again for all the replies

 

[Sideways]

Thanks Goose, thats the way mine is set up now.

 

[Goose Guy]

Thanks Goose, thats the way mine is set up now.

No problem, glad I could help.

 

[Sideways]

Got the replacement springs and friction rings kit today.
The rings are no problem but are the springs something I can replace or should I have a gunsmith do it?

 

[_JT_]

did you have any luck with the install Sideways? I use a Browning a5 for my waterfowling, and experienced a few issues last season. Since its nearly that time again, figured i'd ask here. On my second shot, i was having FTE problems on the 12ga A5. Is there a spring that needs replacing? The gun is from 1973, great condition, though my uncle who's it was originally said that it has always struggled with that second shell, so i'm guessing something is getting hung up. Any suggestions/ideas would be much appreciated.

 

[Sideways]

JT, I have not found a gunsmith to install the spring kit yet.
I have shot the gun a few times since I last posted with Remington low brass rounds and had a problem with the first shell ejecting.

I later fired some high brass Remington turkey shells with no problems at all

 

[_JT_]

Cool, i'm not going to make any changes until i can find out specifically whats causing the 2nd shell FTE. It could just be a brass deal, guess i'll do some more searching. Thanks.

 

[RAPTOR555]

Friction Ring Configurations

For 2 3/4": With butt of shotgun on the floor and the spring on the magazine tube, place one steel ring on top of the spring with the inside bevel facing up and then one bronze friction brake. Replace the barrel.

For 3" Magnum: With the butt of the shotgun on the floor and the spring on the magazine tube, place one steel ring on the top of the spring with the inside bevel facing up, one bronze friction brake, two more steel rings with the flat surfaces back to back, one more bronze friction brake and then the barrel.

 

[MPS111]

If you have a magnum it will probably not cycle target loads unless you install LT springs and friction rings. Sometimes you can lube the magazine tube to reduce the friction from the brass brakes. I tried every short cut fix there is and bought the rebuild kit for the LT and it cycles every time.
Good luck with your Auto 5