Duracoat- Airgun/airbrush or their spray can?

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  • Danketch71

    Member
    Mar 28, 2009
    96
    THe city that bleeds
    Hi all,

    Got a fairly new shotgun that I keep tucked in a closet. Checked it the other week and I was starting to get some rust on it. Mine is one of those black home defense Remington's. Probably didn't put enough oil on it.

    Anyway, I was investigating the duracoat finish, and was thinking about doing it. My only question for those who have done it is- should I get the airbrush style or the shake and spray kit they sell? Any real difference? I have a pancake compressor, but no airbrush. Cost wise, it doesn't seem to make a big difference to me.

    Also, any retailers sell this locally?

    Thanks fellas.
     

    blackthorne

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    Aug 31, 2010
    1,499
    Naptown
    It should not be rusting in the closet. You need to keep all metal surfaces wiped down with RemOil on a rag. I don't think that Duracoat is your answer as much as proper care is.
     
    Last edited:

    benton0311

    Active Member
    Feb 26, 2011
    358
    I didn't know Duracoat offered a spray can version. I'm curious as well.

    Any gun with a good finish should not rust in short order while being stored unless exposed to moisture or in a salt water environment. If it's anything like a lot of the Wal-Mart grade 870s I've seen then the finish isn't all that great. My friends 870s seem to rust at the slightest sign of moisture and even the 870 riot guns I've been issued, while better than the civvie finish, don't seem to hold up like the finish on an M4 or SAW.

    I've carried and stored guns all over the world and from my observations a good finish that's intact should not require a coat of oil for short term storage in a home environment.
     
    Aug 2, 2007
    1,253
    Harford County
    My friends 870s seem to rust at the slightest sign of moisture and even the 870 riot guns I've been issued, while better than the civvie finish, don't seem to hold up like the finish on an M4 or SAW.

    What SAW's were you playing with because those things are rust magnets in my experience. Every time I've so much as looked at one in an arms room something has developed a light coat of surface rust (barrel, feed tray, and bipod usually.) Of course an oily rag and sixty seconds later they're sparkling clean.


    For duracoat I've used an HVLP gun as was suggested. I use the finest spray I can manage without getting any large specks and do a few coats followed by a clearcoat at the end.

    The airgun spray bottle thing that comes with the kit is crap in my experience. There is no way to regulate the volume or consistency of the spray and it makes getting a proper application a friggin' nightmare.
     

    benton0311

    Active Member
    Feb 26, 2011
    358
    Checked out the Duracoat website and it looks like the spray can Duracoat is a bake on finish without a separate hardener. Sounds similar to GunKote to me but I don't have experience with either one. I'm kind of tempted to try it on an old Spanish Mauser that I attempted to re-blue years ago but it needs some TLC before I proceed.

    I was comparing a brand new with pristine finish Para-SAW to an 870 Police. I'm not complementing the finish on the SAW but comparing it to an 870 which, IMHO, is even worse. I guess the point I'm getting at is that the OP perceived that his shotgun (a Remington) had a finish that is more prone to rusting. It could be prevented by applying oil to the exterior but, in the end, this doesn't make it a good finish.
     
    Last edited:

    razorV23

    TK421
    Dec 18, 2008
    1,468
    Annapolis
    I used the Preval system they sell, worked great. Just mix in supplied jar, screw to Preval and spray, no clean up, just remove jar and throw out.

    IMG_4589.jpg
     

    Danketch71

    Member
    Mar 28, 2009
    96
    THe city that bleeds
    Update

    Went with the ez finish kit from Lauer custom weaponry ($49.95). This includes the airbrush, and some can of airbrush propellant, as well as their proprietary cleaner Trustrip (heavy stuff- toluene, acetone and some other chems) and the two part Duracoat color of your choice, as well as a baby piece of scotchbrite.

    I started using the propellant because I couldn't find the adapter for my compressor. It was awful. Sputtered and spit. Finally gave up, and went and searched for my adapter fitting. Found it, hooked it up to the comp, worked awesome.

    My advice for all considering this or the shake and spray kit, get an airbrush or an hvlp gun, or the kit I got, and not the Preval sprayer, hook it up to a real compressor, and have at it. You could save more money, and just blast or abrade with scotchbrite, and clean with acetone, and just buy the color kit you need.

    I will post pics on reassembly this coming week.

    Dan
     

    Mr BoomStick

    Active Member
    Jan 27, 2010
    272
    Hagerstown
    I've used the shake n spray it works well just test it out on an old pipe and get used to how it sprays. Its light short coats not spray on in one or two like you can do with an airbrush or hvlp gun, and always start shooting the spray before you hit the part being sprayed it lets you catch paint boogers and gives a more even coat.
     

    DZ

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 9, 2005
    4,091
    Mount Airy, MD

    boatbod

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 30, 2007
    3,834
    Talbot Co
    The Preval sprayer is great for spraying PVA mold release, but rather hit-n-miss for anything detail oriented. Use an airbrush or a proper spray gun, or find a buddy with one who can do it for you.
     

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