first reload results

[shaddydan]

first reload results UPDATE

Hello,
I finally got out today to try my first reloads in 7mm. 59 grains of 4831. Federal large magnum primer. 150 sierra match grade 150 bthp. My first 10 shots at 100 yards. I guess I was hoping for better results. The lower right one was the first shot on cold barrel. I guess I will start moving up a grain at a time to see if I can get a better group. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

Look in your load data, and start at the starting charge. Do a "lot" of about 5 rounds at each powder charge,and work up @ .50 grains (half a grain) at a time, but not over the Max (ever!) if that 7mm is a Magnum, you may not be able to do lots of that many, as the barrel will heat up fast. 3 round groups may have to suffice in that case.

So for example if your load data for that load, states 59 grains is the starting charge, you could do 5 rounds with that charge, and group them together in your box. Do another 5 rounds @ .50 grains higher (ex 59.5). The next set at 60 grains etc etc, until you are near max. Inspect your brass for pressure signs, between each charge group. If you see signs of excessive pressure on the brass - stop and do not go on to the next higher charge.

When you do your test on paper, look for the charge that produces the tightest group, and dont worry about which hits bullseye. You can adjust your sights after you dial in your powder charge.

Some folks do the audette ladder test, and that works. I personally prefer to change a target, between each powder lot group, and mark the powder charge on each target. 5 shots will allow you some room for error, if you accidently pull a flier in your group testing.

 

[shaddydan]

It is a magnum and I get about 3 shots, then it is take a brake time. 59 is the starting load and 62.5 is max according to lee. It was just really cool shooting my own cartridges!

 

[44man]

thats a respectable group for starting out. yep work on the powder charge and adjust your scope to center that group on the target and see what you can do. dont forget about trying different brands of bullets and weights to see which bullet your gun likes best. you can change components until you get the groups you want. thats the cool thing about reloading. and you get to do a lot of shooting to do the testing. its a win win.

 

[Uncle Duke]

I'm not so sure it's your load. Might not be that at all. The very first thing I'd do is consider changing your target. Try a "sight in" target. I can't tell from your picture just how large that red bull area is, nor do I know what magnification you're running. But you'll have a lot better defined aim point with a target designed to specifically orient your reticle. Take that larger aim point variable out of play that you're currently using, and run 3 shot groups and see what happens.

 

[BradMacc82]

Look in your load data, and start at the starting charge. Do a "lot" of about 5 rounds at each powder charge,and work up @ .50 grains (half a grain) at a time, but not over the Max (ever!) if that 7mm is a Magnum, you may not be able to do lots of that many, as the barrel will heat up fast. 3 round groups may have to suffice in that case.

So for example if your load data for that load, states 59 grains is the starting charge, you could do 5 rounds with that charge, and group them together in your box. Do another 5 rounds @ .50 grains higher (ex 59.5). The next set at 60 grains etc etc, until you are near max. Inspect your brass for pressure signs, between each charge group. If you see signs of excessive pressure on the brass - stop and do not go on to the next higher charge.

When you do your test on paper, look for the charge that produces the tightest group, and dont worry about which hits bullseye. You can adjust your sights after you dial in your powder charge.

Some folks do the audette ladder test, and that works. I personally prefer to change a target, between each powder lot group, and mark the powder charge on each target. 5 shots will allow you some room for error, if you accidently pull a flier in your group testing.

^This.

I learned real fast to find the most consistent 'lot', and adjust my sights to that batch.

The half grain adjustment is a great way to go. Personally, once I find a load that shows potential, I try to work up a tenth of a grain to find the maximum 'sweet spot' charge-wise. Then I'll play with seated depth and see what it nets me.

Lately I find the best accuracy is found at mid-level powder charges, but YMMV.

 

[shaddydan]

I didn't adjust scope. I was simply looking for grouping. Don't worry about me heating the barrel too much. It's a basic Savage 110 with a sporter barrel....man that thing can punch! Also, the trigger is really rough.

 

[FlatsFlite]

All of my hunting rifles are zeroed from a cold barrel. In the woods, it's the first one that counts.

No comment on the loading without seeing one of your groups from factory loads as a comparison. A good load only increases one's chance at tightening a group. Sight picture, trigger control and a few other factors are far more critical for getting a good group.

 

[shaddydan]

The factory groups are much bigger! I figured one I had a good load, then I would adjust scope for a cold barrel.

 

[FlatsFlite]

Tweak away. My shoulder is hurting just thinking about it.

 

[BUFF7MM]

Look in your load data, and start at the starting charge. Do a "lot" of about 5 rounds at each powder charge,and work up @ .50 grains (half a grain) at a time, but not over the Max (ever!) if that 7mm is a Magnum, you may not be able to do lots of that many, as the barrel will heat up fast. 3 round groups may have to suffice in that case.

So for example if your load data for that load, states 59 grains is the starting charge, you could do 5 rounds with that charge, and group them together in your box. Do another 5 rounds @ .50 grains higher (ex 59.5). The next set at 60 grains etc etc, until you are near max. Inspect your brass for pressure signs, between each charge group. If you see signs of excessive pressure on the brass - stop and do not go on to the next higher charge.

When you do your test on paper, look for the charge that produces the tightest group, and dont worry about which hits bullseye. You can adjust your sights after you dial in your powder charge.

Some folks do the audette ladder test, and that works. I personally prefer to change a target, between each powder lot group, and mark the powder charge on each target. 5 shots will allow you some room for error, if you accidently pull a flier in your group testing.

+1^^^^
I've used this method and it definately works, the Half grain jump between loads for rifles and 1/10th on handguns.
My only problem is that once I've found my sweet spot I've usually ran out of bullets and the only ones I can find are different than what I was testing with. Only good thing here is that once all this craziness settles down I should have a pretty good load data selection for different bullets from my guns.

 

[pop-gunner]

The factory groups are much bigger! I figured one I had a good load, then I would adjust scope for a cold barrel.

Slow down...
Read all of the above posts 2 times.
Make sure your scope, mount, and rings are all good quality and tight.
Then start looking for a 5 shot group.
Once you have your gun and loads grouping where you want them look at your cold bore shot.

 

[Biggfoot44]

What Duke said about a better ( more precise for crosshair placement ) target.

Either 3 or 5 shot groups.

Yes bbl heat matters, particularily on sporter wt bbls. Let cool inbetween groups.

What is your usual group size with your position/ rest setup , with a rifle of known accuracy ?

 

[shaddydan]

With factory loads, I'm usually closer to 4" groups in a triangle pattern. I think 2 factors hurt me the most with is expected recoil flinch and a tough trigger.

 

[byf43]

Read again, what Deep Creek Rock and Uncle Dan wrote, first.


Work up your loads, carefully.
Get a BETTER target. Don't use a non-descript target.
Get something like the old "Redfield" Targets.

IF you have access to a printer, even print out a simple "+" sign (large) on 8-1/2 x 11" paper, and use that as an aiming point.

I'm not sure how I could post it, here (maybe photobucket - ???), but, I have a couple of targets that I made, on my computer at home.

Try here:
http://www.mytargets.com/

Use something like the "Basic Grid Target - Gray Scale", then use a 'level' or other means to make sure that the 'crosshairs' are "plumb and level".



I don't recall seeing this asked -
How are you resting the rifle???
Prone position, with a tight sling??
Sandbag rest??
Mechanical rest??
No rest??

 

[Range Rat]

I have had great sucess using the "OCW" method for finding the right charge for a particular load.

http://optimalchargeweight.embarqspace.com/#/ocw-instructions/4529817134

Please let me know if the link works properly, as I would definitely like to make this information available to the members of this group!

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

Here is a freebie target that I use for load development and general 100 yard shooting. Its in PDF format (you'll need adobe acrobat, to read & print it).

The center circle, is white, which makes seeing your POI a little easier @ 100 yards through optics. Its in a grid format, and has marks to line up your crosshairs if your using a scope.

Its attached below to this post. You can save it to your PC for later & offline use, by right clicking and select "Save As" to your destination of choice on your PC.

 

[Mooseman]

It is a magnum and I get about 3 shots, then it is take a brake time. 59 is the starting load and 62.5 is max according to lee. It was just really cool shooting my own cartridges!

I can't wait until I can say this. Finding components is just so difficult right now.

 

[byf43]

I can't wait until I can say this. Finding components is just so difficult right now.

One of the guys at work, just told me about his son swapping a 'scooter' for a Weatherby .30-378.
The guy's son only paid $200.00 for the scooter.


He said that he and his son were gonna have to start reloading.

That .30-378 ammo is about $120-$140/box!!!!!!!!!

 

[FlatsFlite]

That .30-378 ammo is about $120-$140/box!!!!!!!!!

Reloading won't be cheap either at 100gr +/- of powder per case. If you have to buy brass too ...

With good bullets and Weatherby or Norma brass, you are looking at about $80 a box of 20, maybe more.

Tell him, I'll give him $250 for it.