Garand Reloading

[Screwtop.243]

Just a couple of questions:

1) Is it totally necessary to use cannelured bullets and crimp?

2) Can I use Federal 210 primers, or should I go with CCI 200s?

Thanks!

ST.243

 

[Skins_Brew]

Just a couple of questions:

1) Is it totally necessary to use cannelured bullets and crimp?

2) Can I use Federal 210 primers, or should I go with CCI 200s?

Thanks!

ST.243

I use cannelured bullets, no problem. The cannelure may be well above the case, depending on the bullet. I do not crimp.

I use CCI magnum large rifle. not sure what # they are.

 

[stu929]

I have heard fed are the softest primers out there. I have mostly cci and win.

 

[browning guy]

I have used both cannelure and smooth bullets no problem. I tend to use cci in everything but I have loaded fed match primers in garand food with no problem, and a little better groups.

I don't crimp much at all if your sizing right you don't need to

 

[Screwtop.243]

Thanks, guys. I have a CMP Garand on the way and I'm doing some research up front. I'm glad I have some CCI 200s and some Winchester WLR primers in my inventory so I can get started.

Best,

ST.243

 

[Nanook]

Make damn sure that is a Garand load!! Failing to do so, or installing an adjustable gas plug WILL damage the rifle.

(Haven't blown up one of those (yet) but the smart guys are always harping on that.)

 

[dj_in_md]

I agree with above posts. Make sure the load is for the garand. Federal primers are softer and have been known to cause slam fires.

 

[Screwtop.243]

Make damn sure that is a Garand load!! Failing to do so, or installing an adjustable gas plug WILL damage the rifle.

(Haven't blown up one of those (yet) but the smart guys are always harping on that.)

Absolutely. Got me some IMR 4895 and some IMR 4064. Always stock plenty of the later. They say ya gotta keep the powder in the middle of the burn rate range and go easy. That's what I intend to do!!

 

[alucard0822]

The garand can be rough on brass and ammo, so while a cannelure/crimp isn't a requirement, good neck tension is. You can run into some cases with lighter boat tail FMJ bullets designed for 7.62x51 that might only contact about 1/2 the neck, and can easily bump back when chambering. Garand loads are also one of the few I religiously brush out the necks with, old surplus powder can be dirty, and any soot in the neck will loosen the grip on the bullet. As for primers, some claim the Garand will slam fire, I have never seen it in a rifle that was taken care of. There is a mechanism where the tang on the pin has to line up with a slot in the receiver in order to hit the primer, this only happens as the bolt rotates into engagement, so the pin is arrested from inertia, it prevents out of battery kabooms, and limits slam fires. I have used federal primers without issue, but usually use CCI for no other reason than they shoot well, and my local shop tends to stock them most.

 

[browning guy]

The garand can be rough on brass and ammo, so while a cannelure/crimp isn't a requirement, good neck tension is. You can run into some cases with lighter boat tail FMJ bullets designed for 7.62x51 that might only contact about 1/2 the neck, and can easily bump back when chambering. Garand loads are also one of the few I religiously brush out the necks with, old surplus powder can be dirty, and any soot in the neck will loosen the grip on the bullet. As for primers, some claim the Garand will slam fire, I have never seen it in a rifle that was taken care of. There is a mechanism where the tang on the pin has to line up with a slot in the receiver in order to hit the primer, this only happens as the bolt rotates into engagement, so the pin is arrested from inertia, it prevents out of battery kabooms, and limits slam fires. I have used federal primers without issue, but usually use CCI for no other reason than they shoot well, and my local shop tends to stock them most.

Good honest sh*t right there neck tension is the key

 

[ENT Shooter]

Agreed, neck tension needed and you get that with just a smidge of a taper crimp.
My Garand is brutal to brass. I keep things low key at 45.5 gr of 4895. No chrony but it is the garand diet range. Seems the case mouth dent that I get (which can be severe, almost D shaped) straightens up with resizing.

A couple of questions (yea I know search is your friend and all that but I thought I would ask here)
1. Some of my shot brass will move the shoulder (forward I quess) so it wont fit in a wilson case gauge. Doesn't seem to be cummulative 2,3, or 4, reloads of once fired and it occurs sporadically. I can't seem to set the sizer die in any way to correct this, so I put them aside until I figure out what is going on and how to fix this, if possible. Don't want to toss brass that looks fine otherwise. Any ideas?
2. I got a bunch of brass with crimped primers. Any easy and cheap way to get rid of the crimp in a reproducible way without buying some other piece of equipment. I am about out of excuses to my wife for spending money during the great MD gun grab of 2013. I cant get to the mailbox before her when the credit card bill comes and I now have to justify things more than just mumbling " that damn O'malley" and such.

Thanks and great thread.

 

[browning guy]

If you hsve a bunch of brass you need to swag I would be hsppy to
Have you come over and use mine

 

[DocAitch]

There are a number of rotating cutter tools that will remove the crimp in a primer pocket. I use a hexagonal shaft double ended cutter from Lyman in a small Skil electric screw driver for the occasional crimped pistol primer pocket that I run into while using my Dillon. I also have a couple of Lyman hand tools. This type of tool does remove brass, which is a theoretical objection,(but I don't follow that reasoning).
If I am running a larger number of cases like several hundred LC 5.56 or 7.62x51, I have a Dillon super swage,but I rarely pull that off the top shelf.
DocAitch

 

[Pinecone]

Lyman has a hand reamer.

About the cheapest way to go.

 

[Screwtop.243]

Thanks guys for the replies. At present, all I have is standard RCBS .30-06 FL sizing/seat dies. I'm wondering if I need to invest in some type of specialty "Garand" dies, or if I can make do with what I've got. The points that have been made regarding neck tension are well taken, and I appreciate the information.

I was doing a little more research and saw a video where a gentleman was demonstrating how resized brass should typically show a neck diameter of
.002" less than that of a live round (i.e., after the bullet has been seated). He indicated that this should give one reasonable assurance that the neck tension is sufficient. Is he right?

I'm kind of hoping I can make do with the dies I have, but if there is a significant benefit to going with a more sophisticated set up, I probably will pursue that.

Thanks!

ST.243

 

[theBIGone2087]

No need for specialty dies, I use LEE .30-06 steel dies. Just need to make sure the are trimmed to length and it wouldn't hurt to get a Hornady O.A.L. gauge to get the right bullet seating depth for your rifle. My standard load is a Hornady 150gr FMJ with a canneleure that I then crimp with a Lee Factory crimp die. I have a 'match' load that uses a smooth bullet that I do not crimp.