Installing "one" AR barrel?

[SkiPatrolDude]

You can make it happen with a barrel wrench, and someone holding the gun for you.

/thread.

 

[camo556]

I installed my AR barrel by bashing it against my head. I have a thick skull like some here.

 

[Bullfrog]

You good at torqueing it to spec that way?

He's the guy that works in the tire shop who just uses all the torques he has and figures it's good.

 

[SkiPatrolDude]

He's the guy that works in the tire shop who just uses all the torques he has and figures it's good.

He's the guy that drives his car by pushing it.

 

[Slackdaddy]

So you would NOT endorse using a 24" pipe wrench to hold the upper,, and 2 "Ugga Dugga's" with a open end wrench on the Barrel nut??

I don't even have words.

 

[Slackdaddy]

Well the deed is done , 15% off pushed me over the limit.,, Faxon 16" Match Heavy fluted S.S. 223 Wylde 1:8, NBS OD Grn 12" M-lok Hand guard, NBS lowpro gas block/mid S.S. gas tube, flash hider, NBS charging handle - $375.00 (I already have the BCM upper and toolcraft BCG)

Something I stumbled on when buying online: put the items in your cart, goto checkout, fill in your Name/Address/email, etc but dont pay for it,, just close the window and leave it.
1st day I get reminders I have stuff in my cart, by day 2-3 I am getting offer to check out with a discount.

 

[k3for]

MAGPUL in stock $60

I found this for you, the MAGPUL vise tool is in stock for $60:

https://www.at3tactical.com/products/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-vise-block-tool-mag536

That said, I used the clamshell style vice block and it's worked fine for me. I used a socket torque wrench attached to the special wrench that was provided for the floating handguard nut I bought, and just did a ratio of the force for the modified length - got it close, I imagine.

 

[alucard0822]

You can justify different tools for different circumstances. Figure what is getting torque applied to it, then support that. For a barrel nut, it's torquing aggainst the face of the barrel extension, so something that engages the lugs on the other side obviously is ideal, but there is some torque applied to the threads on the upper, and this is what breaks index pins. In most cases one that doesn't take much torque will work with a bev block or unsupported reaction rod, but if you are clocking without shims, or removing a tight barrel nut, you need to support both the upper and extension. This is why the MI rod is the best, it supports both in alignment. Also the reason using the correct lube is important, both to avoid corrosion and to avoid friction placing added torque on the upper. For most muzzle devices a clamshell or receiver block can be OK, but it's basically putting torque on the pin itself, and relies on the friction of a torqued barrel nut, if the muzzle device is tighter than the barrel nut, it can shift, and you can damage the pin or upper. If they are tight, or rockset(after soaking it) then clamping the barrel is best, and takes the stress off the receiver. 9mm and 22 barrels don't have an extension, you can usually get away with a receiver block installing, but the extension is machined into the barrel, and there isn't a great way to support the receiver AND barrel other than a wrench on the muzzle device or clamp on the barrel.