Lathe Setup help

[tlino]

Anyone in the Frederick area interested in helping me set up my lathe and maybe teaching me some basics?
I have had an old Craftsman/Atlas lathe for years. I have only used it for stuff that did not need precision. I put a three jaw self centering chuck on it and need to true it. I don't know enough to do it right.

I am willing to pay for the service.
I can't find any local machinist who want to do it.

Thanks.

TP

 

[foodpoison]

friendly bump, if no responds you tube it

 

[Half-cocked]

Congratulations!

If you have a lathe, look in the mirror - there's your machinist!

Check out this guy on YouTube, goes by the name 'Tubal Cain' (aka mrpete222). There are a lot of other helpful YouTube machinists out there, as well.

https://www.youtube.com/user/mrpete222/videos

Here's one of his videos that might be similar to what you're looking for:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yWsjeY6nJU

 

[tlino]

Lots of stuff on YouTube.
I'll have to spend some time there.
Thanks.

(I'm still looking for my Obi Wan Kanobe, though)

TP

 

[smdub]

Track down South Bend's "How to run a lathe". Google it and find online. It was an Army manual too at one point. A later 50s+ish(?) edition is better though most of it is in the early ones too. Lathes haven't really fundamentally changed since the turn of the last century.

 

[jcutonilli]

You might want to try the Chesapeake Area Metalworking Society http://www.cams-club.org/ they are mostly in the DC area, but have a mailing list and have members much farther away.

 

[John from MD]

Just a head's up. While a three jaw chuck is easier to use, you won't get real precision unless you use a 4 jaw chuck.

The South Bend book reference is a good recommendation but the videos found on the web are the best. Depending on the lathe they are using in the video, you may have to extrapolate some material.

John

 

[smdub]

Just a head's up. While a three jaw chuck is easier to use, you won't get real precision unless you use a 4 jaw chuck.

This just isn't true. Something like a new import Bison will guarantee axial runout of less than a thou on a 3-jaw (=0.02mm=0.0008" and thats not even getting into the adjust-tru type.) Yes, a clapped out or even poorly made new chinese 3-jaw can have bad runout. But so can a clapped out/poorly made 4-jaw. You can adjust it to have no runout at the chuck but there is ZERO guarantee that it is parallel to the spindle axis and maintains low runout farther out. W/ chucks, as many things in life, you often get what you pay for. A quality 3-jaw can be PLENTY accurate for a lot of work.

 

[Joseph]

Anyone in the Frederick area interested in helping me set up my lathe and maybe teaching me some basics?
I have had an old Craftsman/Atlas lathe for years. I have only used it for stuff that did not need precision. I put a three jaw self centering chuck on it and need to true it. I don't know enough to do it right.

I am willing to pay for the service.
I can't find any local machinist who want to do it.

Thanks.

TP

If your chuck is an "adjust true" variety then there are some screws that can be used to adjust it to run true with the spindle. If not then there is really no adjusting to be done. 3 jaw chucks are not the most accurate (especially ones on atlas/craftsman lathes) and at best have 3 - 5 thousands run out. As mentioned in a previous reply, a 4 jaw chuck is better for accuracy. It is as accurate as your patients...

 

[campns]

+1 on the Southbend manual, those old tanks are what I learned on in college

4 jaw all the way with dial indicator

 

[tlino]

I watched a bunch of videos on YouTube. I am going to try some of them in hopes it will run true.

Lots of good stuff, but I still could use a bit of instruction.

I learn better hands on with a salty ol' instructor standing behind me ready to slap the back of my head when I screw up! (I think that might become my motto)

 

[MigraineMan]

Make chips. Pick a project and have at it. Wobbler steam engines are pretty popular, and can be made with a lathe and a drill press.

I've got the Army and Southbend manuals around here somewhere. They should be easy to find on the web.

 

[tlino]

I disassembled the chuck and cleaned the jaws. Now there is .003" run-out. How much is acceptable?
I took a lot apart cleaned and oiled everything and adjusted all the little tightening screw.
Everything seems to glide nice with no play.
I think I'll keep it!

 

[John from MD]

It all depends what you want to do with it. If you want to turn a couple of drift pins or make a bolt for your lawnmower, it will do just fine. If you want to turn a crown on a barrel, it might get you a 3 or 4 moa.

If you want to ream a chamber on a high pressure cartridge - don't.

John

 

[oupa]

Check out http://www.mini-lathe.com/ I realize yours is not a "mini lathe" but there are some awesome machinists on the site with tons of real shop experience and education. The tips and tricks offered can be applied to machines of any size and are mostly home shop / DIY type solutions with minimal specialized instruments.

Of particular note might be the tutorial on conversion of dremel-type tools for tool post grinders and then using it to true a chuck.

I haven't used the site in a while but as I recall, the vendor list is worth the visit alone.

 

[Ranchero50]

I disassembled the chuck and cleaned the jaws. Now there is .003" run-out. How much is acceptable?
I took a lot apart cleaned and oiled everything and adjusted all the little tightening screw.
Everything seems to glide nice with no play.
I think I'll keep it!

Minimal amount, preferably zero. Pull the chuck against the dial indicator to get an idea how worn the bearings are. Hard to dial in a chuck with a worn spindle. To dial it in, loosen the six mounting bolts a little and if you have them adjust the sets screws on the outside to minimize the run out. No seat screws, tap it with a dead blow to see if you can get it tuned better. Recheck once the mounting bolts are tight.

Also note that sometimes the scroll is worn or strained at different areas so different diameter parts may not run concentric.

I have a stressed Bison on my Logan that I ground the at 1" that is out @ .005" at 2" but works for what I'm doing. The removable jaws make it worth having on the machine.

 

[PapiBarcelona]

What kind of run out? Is it smooth with a low and high point? Or Is it lumpy? .001" here, -.002" 60 degrees later, then 0 another 30 degrees. .003" total runout? Divide it in half for radial measurement, that's your "run out." Total run out is the .003" you are (totally) seeing.

It's a challenging "trade" to learn for a DIY. Not to say you can't do it, or do good enough work or eyeball'd stuff.

 

[tlino]

What kind of run out? Is it smooth with a low and high point? Or Is it lumpy? .001" here, -.002" 60 degrees later, then 0 another 30 degrees. .003" total runout? Divide it in half for radial measurement, that's your "run out." Total run out is the .003" you are (totally) seeing.

It's a challenging "trade" to learn for a DIY. Not to say you can't do it, or do good enough work or eyeball'd stuff.

After disassembling the jaws and replacing them (in their correct slots) the total run out is .003. About .002 up and .001 down (from start point).
I want better.
TP

 

[smdub]

I want better.

What are you working on? Runout doesn't make a difference if you make the part from start to finish and don't take it out of the jaws. When you make the first cut it wwill, be definition, have no runout. Are you working on existing parts that need better than thou cocontricity?

What lathe? If you have a chuck that bolts onto the faceplate you can loosen them slightly, knock it w/ a rubber mallet to shift it slighty, and then retighten. There is probably a thou+ of slop in most mating face registers that you can play with.

For a fellow who admits he doesn't know how to run a lathe yet you may be chasing your tail. A *LOT* of parts can be made w/ a thou+ of error. You might not be able to hold that easily on a lathe yet anyway until you get some skill. Not knocking you(!) but cut some stuff and make some parts. I can hold tenths when needed but its a VERY RARE occasion that its required.

 

[Half-cocked]

tlino -

You may have already found this if you've done any searching around on YouTube, but this guy has an 8 part series on restoring an old Craftsman/Atlas 618 lathe, including testing / fixing the runout.

This is the first video in the series:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obvA83_EFPk

Here is the video on checking the runout:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKceUsFTRFc