P-38 questions

[why2kmax]

So I stopped in an LGS in PA, and looked in the case and saw a P-38. Been wanting one for a while but never bit. always a bit to much $$ for what Ive come across or they are sold out before I can order.

So this one is an AC43,
sn 2015d and is stamped on all major parts, frame, slide, barrel.
Has waffenampt 359 stamps on all pieces of the gun, including 2 on the right side of the slide so its a Walther and all pieces match
Eagle with Nazi symbol in between both w/359 stamps on right side of slide. The nazi symbol is so small that I couldnt make out if it was still intact or not. didnt look peened, I think I could tell if it was. I know on K98s its easy but those are bigger
Mag had a waffenampt 135 mark which is Mauser I think so that doesnt match.
brown bakelite grips

The price is $674 and its on consignment so I could prob get it for a little less.

what bothers me is This is probably the nicest P38 Ive ever seen (not that Ive seen many), but the blueing is like 99% There were a few light scratches on it but even the feed ramp was dark blue and seemed like it had no wear or not been fired. Almost made me think it was Reblued but it didnt look odd or anything, just like new. So first thing I think is , if its too good to be true, it is.

Russian Capture maybe? It DID have an import mark, I dont recall the importer but I think KNOX TN was part of it. the mark looked dot matrix and very discrete, I almost missed it.

SO my question is, what else should I look for on this gun, and what would the value be? Is that price in line or off base. If the gun is what it appears to be Id say its decent. The guy behind the counter said the gun had just been put out this morning and was put on consignment by a collector who has 2 or 3 of everything and is selling off some of his multiples. But a story is a story.

It was one of the rare times I didnt have my phone with me so no pics.

Thoughts?

 

[Dave91]

BUY IT. That's about the price of the rebuilds.

 

[screamingeagle]

Need pics for a honest assessment.i will tell you this though for whatever reason P 38s seem to hold their blueing better than a lot of WW 2 pistols I have seen and own. I have a BYF 44 that looks spectacular. If it's been re blued the stampings will look soft not crisp.

 

[airsporter]

Likely a Russian capture that has been refinished. If so, the price is a bit high. I find most unaltered P-38's start around $800.

Here's some examples of what's out there:

http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...nam-p-38-9mm-5-walther-factory-made-5037.html

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=377570243

Only thing is, at a dealer, you get to see exactly what you are buying.

 

[reverendbeer]

Need pics for a honest assessment.i will tell you this though for whatever reason P 38s seem to hold their blueing better than a lot of WW 2 pistols I have seen and own. I have a BYF 44 that looks spectacular. If it's been re blued the stampings will look soft not crisp.

FACT.

I also have a BYF 44 (non-matching, unfortunately--"OMG GI Bringback!" yeah, sure) and it looks like it was made yesterday.

 

[Dan44]

Some of those Russian imports were near new.

 

[amoebicmagician]

I've seen some very good examples, none of them were altered. The bluing is just really deep on the Walther guns, and the phosphate like finish on the post war guns is also very sturdy.

I've seen some in rough shape go for about 570, if it's in good shape, BUY IT

you won't regret it.

I had one that I was using as a desk gun for awhile until I felt so bad about it that I bought a post war P-1 to replace it with, no hex nut unluckily, and it's been fine.

My lefty friends love it since it doesn't eject across their face

 

[amoebicmagician]

my original point was that those guns were made to be used, the bluing was not fragile at all.

Unfortunately the firing pins ARE.

DO NOT DRY FIRE THE GUNS!

 

[reverendbeer]

My lefty friends love it since it doesn't eject across their face

 

[TxAggie]

I was thinking of the original P38

 

[reverendbeer]

I was thinking of the original P38

Clearly new manufacture. Not C&R. Prob requires HQL.

 

[why2kmax]

I just read that RC P-38s have an X near the serial number. Im 80-90% sure I saw a small X on the gun near the SN on the frame. Still going to go look at it, maybe they will be in a good mood and want to move it.

 

[somd_mustangs]

This may all be a moot point by now but:

In addition to left frame, the dreaded "X" can be on the front barrel flat by the S/N or on left side of slide by S/N and of varying size. Some are mis-struck and look more like a V or have one or more "legs" missing. Not all RC's have the X. Some were just dipped. A dipped gun that hasn't been "reclaimed" or "cleaned" will typically look shiny black like licorice but many times the dipped blue will come off so another indicator is patchy bluing. Towards end of 1943 and into 1944 the metal pre-treatment and bluing process changed and often see purplish hue. Bluing can be thin and fragile on the later AC43/44/45 Walthers, esp the purple-hued finish.

AC43's typically got used, not captured right away like many BYF44's. So finding one at 99% is, well, unusual especially with import marks. Almost always there will be at least a little edge wear from holster around the muzzle, front of slide, etc. Look at the barrel lock block, lock pin, trigger spring, recoil guides, extractor plunger which should all be "in the white" - if they appear blued or dark it's dipped. The lock pin especially as that's the only thing that can't be pulled off and "re-claimed." Although not a 100% indicator, dipped guns will have the paint missing from the "S" and "F" in the safety cutout. The original "S" paint usually has a slightly yellow or cream color and is neatly done with no "spillage"

Honestly though, with an import mark being dipped and/or Russian capture doesn't really affect the collector value much. $500 or so is reasonable... but it's worth whatever you're happy with paying in the long run. If it's tight and mechanically sound, have fun. Just don't shoot anything but standard velocity 115gr loads in it (Winchester "white box" for example). Check the lock block and recess in frame carefully as well as slide for signs of excessive wear and cracking before & after every shooting session... they do break.

 

[A1Uni]

Ahem....

http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=137754

 

[why2kmax]

Mustang, Not a moot point. I havent been able to get up there yet to check it out. Thank you for the info and what to check. From what you describe that gun MIGHT be dipped. I need to see it again though.

A1, I found that thread yesterday and saw Sunir had cash in hand and figured it would be sold. I guess it hasnt huh... hmmm. Sent you an email

 

[A1Uni]

Mustang, Not a moot point. I havent been able to get up there yet to check it out. Thank you for the info and what to check. From what you describe that gun MIGHT be dipped. I need to see it again though.

A1, I found that thread yesterday and saw Sunir had cash in hand and figured it would be sold. I guess it hasnt huh... hmmm. Sent you an email

Check your PMs.

GP