S&B brass (44mag)

[motox79]

Hey guys, im new to reloading, but been around MDS for a while. After causally reading up, and lurking the Reloading threads, I finally decided to start off with a straight wall cartridge. I am experimenting with 44 mag subsonics. Found about 11.8-12 grains of H110 and cast 300gr with magnum primers seem like a good start out of my Henry model X with Bushwacker 46. Sound like a basketball dropped from waist height, no crack. Accuracy seems to be on par with reman ammo (I’ll work on it when I can get outside to shoot and set up my chrony and lead sled)
Anyhow, I’ve noticed that some Sellior & Bellot brass is very hard to remove primers, and just as hard to press them in (only did 2 before I set aside…. I build car motors and gearboxes day to day, so when things “feel wrong” I don’t push it) anyone else notice this? Also, compared to the Remans I have fired, they seem HOT! And the primers look a bit flat…. Could that have something to do with the extra resistance? Looking forward to hearing thoughts, and appreciate any input!

 

[lazarus]

Hey guys, im new to reloading, but been around MDS for a while. After causally reading up, and lurking the Reloading threads, I finally decided to start off with a straight wall cartridge. I am experimenting with 44 mag subsonics. Found about 11.8-12 grains of H110 and cast 300gr with magnum primers seem like a good start out of my Henry model X with Bushwacker 46. Sound like a basketball dropped from waist height, no crack. Accuracy seems to be on par with reman ammo (I’ll work on it when I can get outside to shoot and set up my chrony and lead sled)
Anyhow, I’ve noticed that some Sellior & Bellot brass is very hard to remove primers, and just as hard to press them in (only did 2 before I set aside…. I build car motors and gearboxes day to day, so when things “feel wrong” I don’t push it) anyone else notice this? Also, compared to the Remans I have fired, they seem HOT! And the primers look a bit flat…. Could that have something to do with the extra resistance? Looking forward to hearing thoughts, and appreciate any input!

First off, switch powders. H110 is really not the right powder to be running that light. Just because a thing can be done, does not mean it should be. H110 run light can fail to burn properly, or burn very fast.

You should be loading a 300gr bullet with 18-19gr of H110. Not 11.8-12gr.

It is not safe to load H110 that far down.

 

[motox79]

First off, switch powders. H110 is really not the right powder to be running that light. Just because a thing can be done, does not mean it should be. H110 run light can fail to burn properly, or burn very fast.

You should be loading a 300gr bullet with 18-19gr of H110. Not 11.8-12gr.

It is not safe to load H110 that far down.

Any recommendations? I’m trying to keep things subsonic for suppressed use. This is just a load that is listed in one of the manuals I have using components that were available. Any down side to using magnum primers if they aren’t called for? Thanks for the info…. Like I said, new at this and looking to learn!

 

[lazarus]

Any recommendations? I’m trying to keep things subsonic for suppressed use. This is just a load that is listed in one of the manuals I have using components that were available. Any down side to using magnum primers if they aren’t called for? Thanks for the info…. Like I said, new at this and looking to learn!

Higher pressure for a magnum primer. It can lead to less consistency if the powder doesn’t need it.

I really like bullseye for light loads. Titegroup also works well, but not as consistent. You can find more loads for 44 magnum with TG than BE.

Out of my 6” Dan Wesson I am running 6.2gr of Bullseye. It clocks at 880fps and 17fps SD. Extremely accurate. This is with an MBC Coated 240gr SWC at 1.625” COAL.

I forget my titegroup load, but I think it’s around 8.5 grains with the same bullet and COAL. It clocks at about 1100fps. Charge weight not be exactly right.

 

[Harrys]

Hey guys, im new to reloading, but been around MDS for a while. After causally reading up, and lurking the Reloading threads, I finally decided to start off with a straight wall cartridge. I am experimenting with 44 mag subsonics. Found about 11.8-12 grains of H110 and cast 300gr with magnum primers seem like a good start out of my Henry model X with Bushwacker 46. Sound like a basketball dropped from waist height, no crack. Accuracy seems to be on par with reman ammo (I’ll work on it when I can get outside to shoot and set up my chrony and lead sled)
Anyhow, I’ve noticed that some Sellior & Bellot brass is very hard to remove primers, and just as hard to press them in (only did 2 before I set aside…. I build car motors and gearboxes day to day, so when things “feel wrong” I don’t push it) anyone else notice this? Also, compared to the Remans I have fired, they seem HOT! And the primers look a bit flat…. Could that have something to do with the extra resistance? Looking forward to hearing thoughts, and appreciate any input!

Are you running dirty brass through your sizer/decapping die or are you using a universal decapping tool? If using dirty brass in decapping/sizing die stop. Also is the decapping pin set to the proper distance? The below link will provide some excellent loads.

https://shootersreference.com/reloadingdata/44-remington-magnum/

 

[Uncle Duke]

Any recommendations? I’m trying to keep things subsonic for suppressed use. This is just a load that is listed in one of the manuals I have using components that were available. Any down side to using magnum primers if they aren’t called for? Thanks for the info…. Like I said, new at this and looking to learn!

Curious OP....what manual is listing 11.8-12 grain loads of H110 in 44 magnum?

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Are you running dirty brass through your sizer/decapping die or are you using a universal decapping tool? If using dirty brass in decapping/sizing die stop.

Harry's, what do you mean, if he is using dirty brass in decapping/sizing die stop?

Also, I don't know the answer, but Sellier brass shouldn't have crimped primer pockets, right?
I am sure some of you can also answer Motox79's experiences like if he should use a reamer, die pocket tool to see if it makes seating his primers better.

Something like this:

Lyman Case Prep Multi Tool

The Lyman Case Prep Multi-Tool is a unique case prep tool that provides the reloader with all the essential case prep accessories in one compact,...

www.midwayusa.com

 

[4g64loser]

S&b brass is noted for having tighter than average primer pockets. Seen this across various different calibers with their cases.

 

[blazing lead]

That's been my experience with S&b brass that I've encountered as well. The pockets are a little snug.

 

[John from MD]

That's been my experience with S&b brass that I've encountered as well. The pockets are a little snug.

A little?

 

[John from MD]

OP, I reloaded .44 Mag super and sub for many years. I would never use a really low amount of H110 for a sub load. You need a faster powder or you will wind up with erratic results. Here is a good place to start.

https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center

 

[Harrys]

Harry's, what do you mean, if he is using dirty brass in decapping/sizing die stop?

Also, I don't know the answer, but Sellier brass shouldn't have crimped primer pockets, right?
I am sure some of you can also answer Motox79's experiences like if he should use a reamer, die pocket tool to see if it makes seating his primers better.

Something like this:

Lyman Case Prep Multi Tool

The Lyman Case Prep Multi-Tool is a unique case prep tool that provides the reloader with all the essential case prep accessories in one compact,...

www.midwayusa.com

He was having issues with decaping nothing to do with a sizing tool. Many manufacturers use a combination sizing and decaping die. Running dirty brass though them could make it difficult to size and decap. I was taught all brass needs to be cleaned before running through the combination sizing/decapping dies. It could put score marks in the die and cause excessive wear. I use a universal decaping die which the brass does not need to be cleaned first. Then the brass goes through its cleaning process and once cleaned then resized.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

He was having issues with decaping nothing to do with a sizing tool. Many manufacturers use a combination sizing and decaping die. Running dirty brass though them could make it difficult to size and decap. I was taught all brass needs to be cleaned before running through the combination sizing/decapping dies. It could put score marks in the die and cause excessive wear. I use a universal decaping die which the brass does not need to be cleaned first. Then the brass goes through its cleaning process and once cleaned then resized.

Thanks Harry's, I may have read wrong. I was thinking he was saying he had troubles installing new primers once he had them decapped. I just re-read motox79's post and we both were right, decapping and repriming was tight he said.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Anyhow, I’ve noticed that some Sellior & Bellot brass is very hard to remove primers, and just as hard to press them in (only did 2 before I set aside….

I use a universal decaping die which the brass does not need to be cleaned first. Then the brass goes through its cleaning process and once cleaned then resized.

Harry's I suspected you may have been using a universal decapping die since your initial post mentioned it. That gave me cause to google a bit about the whole process and see the various methods.

Many manufacturers use a combination sizing and decaping die. Running dirty brass though them could make it difficult to size and decap. I was taught all brass needs to be cleaned before running through the combination sizing/decapping dies. It could put score marks in the die and cause excessive wear.

This is why I like to shut my mouth ( typing fingers) and read what you and others bring to the table. I find that LEARNING is best accomplished by observation, reading, and listening to those with experience and good practices put into use. That part about score marks in the dies is a valuable lesson. Thank you for pointing that out.

I know we have a well reputed member in here who teaches how to build AR's, That is a guy I definitely can learn from.

 

[Harrys]

Harry's I suspected you may have been using a universal decapping die since your initial post mentioned it. That gave me cause to google a bit about the whole process and see the various methods.


This is why I like to shut my mouth ( typing fingers) and read what you and others bring to the table. I find that LEARNING is best accomplished by observation, reading, and listening to those with experience and good practices put into use. That part about score marks in the dies is a valuable lesson. Thank you for pointing that out.

I know we have a well reputed member in here who teaches how to build AR's, That is a guy I definitely can learn from.

Also, I always check the primer pockets and do run them through a power reamer, primers seem to go in a lot easier. I typically just do it one time on once fired brass, you can overdo it with the pocket reamer. After the first-time primers all fit well and keeps fitting well. I use an ultrasonic cleaner which gets every whistle clean especially the primer pockets. Then I resize and once resized I run them though my case vibrating case polisher. I use lizard sand which is extremely fine ground walnut shells found in most pet stores. The beauty of that stuff it never blocks the primer pocket touch hole and puts a real nice shine on the cases.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Also, I always check the primer pockets and do run them through a power reamer, primers seem to go in a lot easier. I typically just do it one time on once fired brass, you can overdo it with the pocket reamer. After the first-time primers all fit well and keeps fitting well. I use an ultrasonic cleaner which gets every whistle clean especially the primer pockets. Then I resize and once resized I run them though my case vibrating case polisher. I use lizard sand which is extremely fine ground walnut shells found in most pet stores. The beauty of that stuff it never blocks the primer pocket touch hole and puts a real nice shine on the cases.

Thanks for the step by step and detailed write-up. Those steps are along the lines of how I planned to do things as well.
Unfortunately, I have had to put a lot of things on hold to take care of our mom till she passed, 2 of our 3 doggies, and my mom's brother's passings. When my shooting buddy who I could also reload with passed, I had to alter my plans and now will be gearing up and getting all my components etc together and finally complete a batch of my most likely to be used first calibers.