Side lock accuracy

[Melnic]

I have the 2 pawn shop sidelocks, but also building a great plains sidelock.
What kind of accuracy would I expect if my pawn shop side locks were in new condition? I just started to work up a load. got 10 shots and started to get delay fires so I guess I'll have to do my load testing just 2 increments at a time. My only goal for the pawn shop rifles is to learn side lock muzzloaders till the Great Plains is done and to maybe have the suitable for muzzleloader deer season for up to 50yds for use by friends.

I shot at 50 yds today with patched round ball and here is what I got with 5 shots and 55g 2F pyrodex

2nd pic is the Pioneer w/ cheap all lead HP Sabots, 80g 2F Pyrodex 50yds

Circles are about 3" diameter in the black

This is bench rested with the iron sites that came with the rifles.

 

[Blacksmith101]

Shooting from what kind of support? Ball diameter? Patch thickness? Patch Lube? Cleaning between shots? Loading sequence i.e. using loading block, short starter, patch between shots, etc? Pictures of recovered patches. The more information the better.

 

[Melnic]

Bench Rest sand bag front and back. With same setup, I usually get 2" groups with my best shooting milsurps.

First pic is patches from this group.
Strip of Walmart Pillow Ticking soaked in 7:1 Water:Ballistol then dried 24hrs.
Cut at muzzle.

Second pic is pre cut patches, same Ballistol mix.
Hornady .490 balls, weighed to within 1grain of each other.

Dry Patch both sides between each shot.

Short started for both. Started just below muzzle for cutting patches at muzzle.

I did not notice much difference for cut at muzzle vs. pre cut patches on this range trip. But not enough shots to tell. Maybe not significant at this stage.

I'm still learning so my process is evolving.

My loading sequence today after each shot taken:
Remove shot Primer
Nipple Pick on the Nipple.
To half Cock
Dry CVA cleaning patch with range rod, both sides, no cleaning solution on them.
Measure powder by volume
Dump powder in muzzle.
Tap but stock down as well as sideways (seems to help with delay fires or misfires).
Patch over muzzle, Ball center of patch
Short end of ball starter (ball below muzzle if cutting patch)
Cut patch
Longer end of ball starter
Range rod down.
Compress (tried to keep consistent pressure)
take to Bench
Load Primer
Full cock
sit and acquire target
set trigger
Final aim.
Pull trigger holding steady in case of delay fire.

 

[onthefarm]

Melnic,

When he asked for details, you gave them!

What you do sounds good. The only difference I have is that I run a lightly spritz'd damp patch,, moosemilk for me, then a dry before loading powder, after every shot for consistancy. It also gives me time to think about the shot I just made. I also use real black powder, but I see nothing wrong with Pyrodex, or whatever you have.

For your powder charge, try starting at 50-60, keep all other variables the same, shoot 3-5 shots, up the powder charge 5-10 grains, and measure your groups. It is likely you will find somewhere between 60-80 grains is your best, but each rifle is an individual.

For my Lyman 50 GPR percussion, I shot a 10 shot group, blew out a 1.5 x 2 inches rectangle hole at 50 yards, using a 460 grain Bullshop with 60gr Goex 2F.

Same rifle, 50 grain Goex 2F, .015 patch , roundball(Hornaday? maybe?) and it shot a 2" group.

I shoot a 2" group with my Lyman .54 GPH, 90 gr Goex 2F, pillow tick from Joann's cut at muzzle, Hornaday RB.

I have some flyers sometimes. Not the rifle's fault. look at my member info, there is a picture of a group. i think that is the 460 gr Bullshops.


Have fun with it.

 

[onthefarm]

By the way, I see you already go to AGC from the backgroud of your picts.

The first Sunday of each month, Maryland Muzzleloaders have a shoot. There is another muzzleloading club that has another Sunday. It's all on the calendar. They are friendly and can help you learn a lot, much more than me.

I plan to join them the next time my schedule allows me to get there on their shooting days.

 

[Clovis]

The first photo of the patches, they show either cutting, tearing or blowing out. They are the cut at the muzzle patches, right? If so, did you wash the pillow ticking before you applied lube to remove the sizeing?

The second pic shows the precut patches, but they exhibit something I have not seen before, the single dark line through the center of each patch. Have you folded them or something? Did you pre-cut them yourself from the same pillow ticking?

Curious if you ever cleaned these two with some regular bore cleaner. Water and muzzle loading cleaners won't reliably remove lead and plastic residue from barrels and if you have not used a hoppes or somethng else I would try that as well.

 

[Melnic]

pillow ticking was not washed. I'll do that. Do I run them through the dryer or hang dry?

Line through the 2nd ones I put on with a sharpie to mark my patches that were pre cut.
Yup, I shoot at AGC. I saw the events, I'll try to make one. thx
This barrel had some rust in it and I did some rust removal and scrubbed with kroil and steel wool afterwards. I think there may still be some nicks in the barrel.

 

[Clovis]

I ran mine through the dryer but line drying should work as well. Have even heard/read of some washing the pillow ticking two or three times to remove sizing, but it might be over kill.

I remember you saying you had a rust issue, I have seen people get a little too enthusiastic about removing rust and end up with a smooth bore. Hope this is not the case.

As far as accuracy, if all you want to do is put holes in paper, I would try going lower on your powder charge and I think you really need to try some over powder wonder wads to help tighten your group a little.

 

[Melnic]

Is the cut portions an indication of patch blowby?

I ordered wads this morning to try.

Does washing the ticking reduce or increase thickness?

 

[Blacksmith101]

Excellent details. Like the others said you are doing the basics right. I also prefer Black powder to Pyrodex more consistent ignition. By varying charge weights you may find a sweet spot. Also you might try some different thickness patch material to see if it makes a difference. What brand and size percussion cap?

Having so many variables is what makes it fun.

 

[Melnic]

Been looking for real black powder. Have not found any yet.
CCI #11 Magnum
I have some Remington #11 too.

I started with CVA yellow patches and those were worse.

Someone at the range I see alot said he uses 34g Pyrodex. I did not think about that light of a charge. Would a lighter charge be easier on the patches?

Wonderwads will come in Tomorrow so next time I'm out I can try those.

 

[Clovis]

Is the cut portions an indication of patch blowby?

I ordered wads this morning to try.

Does washing the ticking reduce or increase thickness?

I'm not sure if the cut portions indicate blowby or rough areas in the barrel that cut the patch on the way down or on the way out. I would not think with those cuts you are getting a good seal. The wads will help with a seal.

As far as washing the ticking, I don't think it will change the thickness. As I understand it, washing removes the sizing (think starch) so it can't be rubbed off or burnt off in the barrel building up and causing problems.

 

[Blacksmith101]

Been looking for real black powder. Have not found any yet.

You're in HoCo have you tried the Gun Shack in Mt.Airy? I haven't been there since I moved but IIRC they used to carry BP.

Edit I see you found some at BassPro.

 

[Melnic]

I tried some Hornady Great Plains lead bullets in the $45 Traditions Pioneer Pawn Shop Find.
This is to loan out to a friend for early ML season on his property.
Sited it in then here were the last 3 shots @ 50 yards from the bench.
I'm pretty happy with hit given the sights. The rest is up to him