SP5 Modifications for SBR?

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  • Hawkeye

    The Leatherstocking
    Jan 29, 2009
    3,971
    Good to know. Thanks! That one was really just for fit testing. It's PLA w/ 6(?) walls and only 20% infill. I'm still thinking I should get some of these printed out of nylon.

    Are folks interested in a run of these?
    Count me in for one.
     

    smdub

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 14, 2012
    4,665
    MoCo
    I've not forgot about folks here! I gave up on outsourcing these and getting the print control that was needed. So I bought a new 3D printer that can do Nylon. Have printed a few test pieces and am tuning the shrinkage / fit. (Nylon is known to be sort of a b*tch to print.) Am doing a fairly major redesigning of this thing for the third time. Will still look the same externally but the internals are improved for more strength. Anyway, hope to have a good part later this week.
     

    Hawkeye

    The Leatherstocking
    Jan 29, 2009
    3,971
    I've not forgot about folks here! I gave up on outsourcing these and getting the print control that was needed. So I bought a new 3D printer that can do Nylon. Have printed a few test pieces and am tuning the shrinkage / fit. (Nylon is known to be sort of a b*tch to print.) Am doing a fairly major redesigning of this thing for the third time. Will still look the same externally but the internals are improved for more strength. Anyway, hope to have a good part later this week.
    That's fantastic, thank you!
     

    smdub

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 14, 2012
    4,665
    MoCo
    By George, I think I've got it!

    They weren't lying. Nylon is tricky. It wants to warp as it cools, supports *SUCK* to remove, etc. I need to design a chamber heater. But in the meantime I went back to the drawing board and split the design into two pieces, then eventually 3. That allows me to print it with the layer orientation in the optimal direction for strength for all parts. I'm quite pleased w/ it now.

    FWIW, Nylon comes out shiny - doubly so when you are running at the high end of the temp range to get really strong parts. The new printer does very good layers and its quite smooth. If you want it matte, sand and spray it w/ some Krylon. I've tried the textured paint and while its a decent texture its still much too shiny to match the magpul plastic. It would also require a spray w/ a flat clear to dull it down. I'll try a 'fuzzy' skin setting on the visible surface to see if I can match the texture and just require a shot of flat clear.

    I have a couple Magpul stocks already and should have a few of these ready to go soon.
     

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    shiza

    Member
    Oct 16, 2020
    49
    Carroll County
    By George, I think I've got it!
    They weren't lying. Nylon is tricky. It wants to warp as it cools, supports *SUCK* to remove, etc. I need to design a chamber heater. But in the meantime I went back to the drawing board and split the design into two pieces, then eventually 3. That allows me to print it with the layer orientation in the optimal direction for strength for all parts. I'm quite pleased w/ it now.

    FWIW, Nylon comes out shiny - doubly so when you are running at the high end of the temp range to get really strong parts. The new printer does very good layers and its quite smooth. If you want it matte, sand and spray it w/ some Krylon. I've tried the textured paint and while its a decent texture its still much too shiny to match the magpul plastic. It would also require a spay w/ a flat clear to dull it down. I'll try a 'fuzzy' skin setting on the visible surface to see if I can match the texture and just require a shot of flat clear.

    I have a couple Magpul stocks already and should have a few of these ready to go soon.
    Keep up the good work, I'd 100% be in for one of these. I need to get my AP5 SBR'd
     
    Sorry to necro an old thread, but are you still making these? How easy is it to install? I can't PM you so I had to write a reply

    I had pmed you before I'm still interested so whenever you get a prototype ready to go I'd love to buy.
    I spoke with smdub last week and he is still working on perfecting them.
    He will chime in at some point.
     

    Hibs

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 23, 2015
    1,020
    Maryland
    2.5 months later my eForm 1 for SBR'ing my MKE AP5 finally got approved.

    Just to clarify with the experts, I need to have my name and city/state engraved on the firearm, correct? I filed as an individual.
     
    2.5 months later my eForm 1 for SBR'ing my MKE AP5 finally got approved.

    Just to clarify with the experts, I need to have my name and city/state engraved on the firearm, correct? I filed as an individual.
    Correct. Make sure it matches your Form 1 exactly and you engrave the same piece of metal that contains the serial number. For the MP5, MKE and other clones, it is not the lower.
    I had mine engraved here...
    .
     

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    cyniclawl

    Member
    Apr 20, 2024
    4
    Laurel
    Correct. Make sure it matches your Form 1 exactly and you engrave the same piece of metal that contains the serial number. For the MP5, MKE and other clones, it is not the lower.
    I had mine engraved here...
    .
    Tell him I know a bunch of professional 3d printers and will buy a bambu if it helps speed up the process.
     

    smdub

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 14, 2012
    4,665
    MoCo
    On a MP5 you can engrave your info down in the 'channel' that the collapsible stock rails ride in. Very unobtrusive.

    Tell him I know a bunch of professional 3d printers and will buy a bambu if it helps speed up the process.
    LOL, Its not a printing holdup (that problem was solved w/ a new K1C), its a CNC holdup now. I'm working on the gcode to machine the slots in the rails today. so the LOP can be the same as before.
     

    cyniclawl

    Member
    Apr 20, 2024
    4
    Laurel
    On a MP5 you can engrave your info down in the 'channel' that the collapsible stock rails ride in. Very unobtrusive.


    LOL, Its not a printing holdup (that problem was solved w/ a new K1C), its a CNC holdup now. I'm working on the gcode to machine the slots in the rails today. so the LOP can be the same as before.
    Ah makes sense, was thinking I'd have to dremel some notches in myself. Could you CNC new rails that are just 2.5 inches longer instead alternatively? Or is that just cost prohibitive at that point
     

    smdub

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 14, 2012
    4,665
    MoCo
    Thats what I did for the MPX stocks way back - made new rails. Its cost prohibitive for the MP5 because of the 'L' rail shape. If I could get raw extruded section it would be possible. I've even thought to weld rails together but that is starting to get to be like work. All this effort for something I don't even need ;)
     

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