Thinking of Building a Maryland Legal AR-15

[ForEnglandJames]

So I'm thinking seriously of building my own AR. After spending a few hours searching through the mdshooters forum posts, I think I have a pretty good grasp on what constitutes a legal or illegal AR in Maryland. That said, I wanted to put my idea to the community and give someone who may know better than me the chance to jump up and say "NO DON'T, YOU'll GET IN TROUBLE!"

What I'm pondering doing is purchasing, milling and assembling the following:

H-BAR Barrel (with bolt carrier):
http://www.tacticalinc.com/16-flute...pper-receiver-assembly-br-556-223-p-4478.html

80% Receiver:
http://www.tacticalinc.com/ar15-80-lower-receiver-no-ffl-required-p-5378.html

Stock:
http://www.tacticalinc.com/mil-spec-6position-collapsible-stock-kit-p-6639.html

Trigger and Parts:
http://www.tacticalinc.com/ar15-lower-receiver-parts-kit-standard-p-6645.html

What I'd like to know from those more knowledgeable than me is, am I correct in believing that this would be a Maryland legal AR?

Thanks everyone who chooses to comment!

 

[ToolAA]

Yes this would be Maryland compliant.

However I'm not sure if you realize that the lower receiver you linked above is not finished. You will need to purchase some tools and fixtures to drill or mill out the fire control group pocket. If you already knew this then you are good. If not find some youtube videos showing how to complete an 80% lower.

The only real advantage is to have a firearm that you do not have to serialize and no background check is required.

Once you complete the lower you technically own a firearm. Just be sure you are legally able to possess a firearm.

If you did not intend to mill out a lower you can buy a complete lower from a maryland FFL dealer. You can find them for around $100-120. You will have to fill out the federal background check forms and wait 1 week before you can take it home.

One more thing the parts you are choosing are not really anything high end. You can purchase a complete Bear Creek AR for less than $500. I saw them at the last Howard County show for $475.

Good luck.



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[DaemonAssassin]

An 80% is more money than you think. For the price of the jig, bits, and the lower, you could buy 2-4 stripped 100% lowers from a local gun store.

You might be able to find the parts for cheaper at Primary Arms, MidwayUSA, Brownell's, Red Barn Armory, Joe Bob Outfitters, and a few others.

 

[HordesOfKailas]

I'd echo above and say a striped lower would be better. Bad time to get into it with the election looming, but deals can still be had. Very easy to complete a 100% lower.

 

[ForEnglandJames]

I did realize that I'll need to mill out the receiver and install the various parts. That's no problem.

You guys have me intrigued though about purchasing a completed one now. The reason I was thinking of doing this was to save a couple hundred bucks (I factored in the cost of the jig).

I haven't been able to find a H-Bar AR for less than 1000.00 anywhere. Am I missing something? Can someone point me to a cheaper MD legal AR?

 

[ForEnglandJames]

I'd echo above and say a striped lower would be better. Bad time to get into it with the election looming, but deals can still be had. Very easy to complete a 100% lower.

Could anyone point me to a store that sells them? I have been asking around but the ones by me don't.

 

[fidelity]

Could anyone point me to a store that sells them? I have been asking around but the ones by me don't.

See this dealer (jlowe23) ...

https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=200555

He'll also ship to an FFL near you, but it may be worth the drive as his very good price includes the transfer fee.

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[Bisondice]

Drive down to Engage in Rockville, they will steer you right.

 

[ForEnglandJames]

Where is Jlowe located? I didn't think he was in MD.

 

[HordesOfKailas]

Can always also order online for transfer at a local FFL. Lots of options. Also note, I'm talking about a 100% striped lower. You still need the LPK and buffer tube. But this way you can make it a pistol before a rifle so you can switch back and forth later on down the line.

 

[DaemonAssassin]

I did realize that I'll need to mill out the receiver and install the various parts. That's no problem.

You guys have me intrigued though about purchasing a completed one now. The reason I was thinking of doing this was to save a couple hundred bucks (I factored in the cost of the jig).

I haven't been able to find a H-Bar AR for less than 1000.00 anywhere. Am I missing something? Can someone point me to a cheaper MD legal AR?

If you source all the parts on your own and assemble it, you will save money. But the cost of the jig and bits kills it for me.

Hbar barrels can be found all over the place.

Also if you ask, I'm pretty sure a fellow member would be willing to help you out during the build process, so you can learn how to do it.

 

[TOWcritter]

Here's all you need:

 

[Sirex]

One more thing the parts you are choosing are not really anything high end. You can purchase a complete Bear Creek AR for less than $500. I saw them at the last Howard County show for $475.

Good luck.



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I ended up getting a Bear Creek. Money was tight, as was time. I know it's a budget AR, but I like it. Not a bad deal for the $$. I can always upgrade it as I go.

 

[ToolAA]

I ended up getting a Bear Creek. Money was tight, as was time. I know it's a budget AR, but I like it. Not a bad deal for the $$. I can always upgrade it as I go.

Agreed I think it's a great starter. You can spend the money you save on a great optic and have a very effective shooter.


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[hillbilly grandpa]

jlowe is up in North East, MD.

 

[WhyTheBans]

Listen to DaemonAssassin (IMO) - he knows what hes talking about.

I just purchased everything I needed and my total is around $750 without any type of sights (and I overpaid $50 for the stripped lower).

So you could say Another $100-$400 depending on what sights I end up with.

$750 with an upgraded trigger, M-lok hand guard, and a "little above average" butt, I came in way under some Plain AR-15's I've been seeing at my local shops.

I'm also fairly new but after a few weeks I see you can save a hundred to a few hundred going about it yourself. Gluck!

 

[jonnyl]

Plus building yourself is fun and satisfying!!

 

[outrider58]

If you go the DIY route(and you should), I strongly suggest you spend some time perusing the SOTAR subforum before you begin. It will help keep you from making some costly mistakes.

 

[noahhh]

Speaking as someone who pieced together one for the first time earlier this year, the choices are astounding and more than a little confusing. A couple of observations:

1. Forget the 80% lower route unless your goal is an end run around registration no matter the cost and hassle. Jigging and tooling costs to finish one are high for a one-off venture.

2. "Parts is parts" isn't necessarily true in this game.

3. All things considered, you generally get what you pay for. Save your nickels and buy what you're going to end up with, in terms of trigger, barrel, sighting gear, etc. Buying cheap, being dissatisfied with performance, and then replacing the stuff piecemeal will end up costing you more in the long run than if you went straight to the good stuff. Being on a budget is a b*tch, I know- boy do I know. I learned though that putting off gratification until the money is saved is a reward in itself.

4. Ask plenty of questions. Even though opinions are like a**holes in that everybody has one, pretty soon the answers start to make sense and a you'll develop a good feel for what's right for you. Don't rush in- do your homework.

5. When selecting your barrel, remember faster twist is better. Overstabilizing a lightweight bullet is better than understabilizing a heavy one. All else being equal, naked steel bores in barrels tend to be a little more accurate than chrome lined ones, but chrome lined barrels resist erosion on a scale of magnitude better- decide which is more important to you. If possible, go with a Wylde chamber, it allows use of both .223's and 5.56's and negates the need to keep the differences straight in your head (especially if you're a little dyslexic like me).

6. Unless you like bulky heavy-ish stocks and handguards, avoid gov't A2-style and Magpul MOE stuff, although both approaches are a cost saver and are extremely rugged. I went the Magpul route and wasn't happy with the bulkiness, and switched out the handguard to a super slim free floating job which makes for a more svelte gun and saves a couple ounces. I coulda-shoulda just gone straight to that handguard and saved time and money. Plus, my groups shrank a bit after the switch.

7. Lastly, being a Maryland resident, anything you build that is state-compliant is going to be weightier than you expect if you're frame of reference is non-compliant guns.

 

[ForEnglandJames]

Thanks everyone! I really appreciate everyone's input and it was extremely helpful. You guys are a wealth of knowledge and information.