Today, boys and girls, we learned a few things

[X-Factor]

So I got my new muzzle break in the mail today, and in the course of messing around with that I decided to do some troubleshooting on my loose stock (VLTOR E Mod with Magpul ASAP plate). In very short order the rear take down pin spring/detent went flying, buffer spring assembly detent/spring went flying (impressively), I bored out the stock threads because the little tiny block that goes in between the ASAP and stock didn't fall out and I didn't think about it, meaning I torqued the stock harder. I lost count of the number of times a spring went flying, my fingers hurt from holding springs/plates in place and I STILL didn't actually solve anything. Bright side: I did learn how it all works (I think).

Lessons: Do NOT start messing with an AR in an area not conducive to lost parts, do NOT start messing with an AR when you don't know what you're doing, do NOT start messing with an AR when you don't have proper tools (I had a small screwdriver and an adjustable wrench).

End result: I still have the old muzzle break on, and there is still play in the stock...so original configuration.

 

[04RWon]

Ehhh ive had springs go flying. But really not much you can mess up. If your not the least bit mechanically inclined then maybe messing with it isnt a good idea but if you go slow and keep your eyes on what you do, you can usually save those little detents and spings. I dont have any special tools, in fact it was just the last 2 rifles i even used punches.

 

[Calengor]

Does the fact that you bored out the buffer tube threads mean you need a new buffer tube assembly? Was the stock loose because the castle nut was still unstaked?

 

[Kilroy]

Citizen's Armory has good prices and shipping on small parts.


Alternatively, you can use a tiny 4-40 tap to carefully tap the rear detent hole, cut off 1/8" of the detent spring, and screw in a 4-40 1/8" set screw. All the supplies you need can be found at your local R/C hobby shop, strangely enough. Use lube when cutting the threads, blow out the metal shavings, and use anti-seize on the set screw.


Edit: Here's a good explanation for it.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/...he_rear_takedown_detent_spring_blues____.html

 

[X-Factor]

Does the fact that you bored out the buffer tube threads mean you need a new buffer tube assembly? Was the stock loose because the castle nut was still unstaked?

Not sure, I'll see what my coworker says about damage. I think I'm ok. Yes, it's due to being unstaked. Figured you would remember....its YOUR old rifle. thinking i'll just throw some loctite on it.

 

[Calengor]

Not sure, I'll see what my coworker says about damage. I think I'm ok. Yes, it's due to being unstaked. Figured you would remember....its YOUR old rifle. thinking i'll just throw some loctite on it.

Don't loctite it. Just take a pin punch and stake it. It takes very little time. I didn't do it to that rifle because at the time I didn't have a pin punch.

This is the punch set I have: http://www.model1sales.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=600

My current AR uses a different system to lock the castle nut in place, but we used the center punch from that punch set and a hammer to stake my FIL's castle nut without any problems.

I really wish the ASAP didn't have that weird little piece that you have to carefully place in there, that's one of the reasons I didn't use it on my new build.

 

[X-Factor]

Yeah I see why it can be annoying.... but it does open up some nice sling options.

I'll probably just stake it.

 

[Calengor]

As far as slings, I've taken to using one of these http://www.lwrci.com/p-240-lwrci-ambi-rear-receiver-sling-mount.aspx ,which when you tighten down the second hex screw stakes itself to the buffer tube, in conjunction with http://www.blueforcegear.com/vickers-padded-sling/ for a sling. I like both of these a lot, although one or both of them may be out of your price range.

 

[Kilroy]

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XIKHSLAP

I really like this sling mount, mostly because of the name. It also won't jingle like the Magpul sling mount.

 

[Numidian]

Citizen's Armory has good prices and shipping on small parts.


Alternatively, you can use a tiny 4-40 tap to carefully tap the rear detent hole, cut off 1/8" of the detent spring, and screw in a 4-40 1/8" set screw. All the supplies you need can be found at your local R/C hobby shop, strangely enough. Use lube when cutting the threads, blow out the metal shavings, and use anti-seize on the set screw.


Edit: Here's a good explanation for it.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/...he_rear_takedown_detent_spring_blues____.html

I agree that the set screw is a good mod, I have done it to all of my lowers.

No offense to the OP by this, I'm just being honest, but if he is struggling this much with basic disassembly of an AR,I don't think he should be putting a tap anywhere near the gun...

 

[X-Factor]

I've got a sling on order, simplistic single point that works with the ASAP. It's the basic model from BDS Tactical.

 

[X-Factor]

Bump for Clandestine

 

[straightsilver3]

http://primaryweapons.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=214 This is an option and it helps with carrier tilt on piston uppers Forgive me Chad! You can find these cheaper

 

[clandestine]

Bump for Clandestine

Im not understanding whats going on, is there wobble between the receiver and the buffer tube, or is the play between the buffer tube and the slider stock?. Is the Castle Nut not tightening down securely?

 

[rseymorejr]

Citizen's Armory has good prices and shipping on small parts.


Alternatively, you can use a tiny 4-40 tap to carefully tap the rear detent hole, cut off 1/8" of the detent spring, and screw in a 4-40 1/8" set screw. All the supplies you need can be found at your local R/C hobby shop, strangely enough. Use lube when cutting the threads, blow out the metal shavings, and use anti-seize on the set screw.


Edit: Here's a good explanation for it.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/...he_rear_takedown_detent_spring_blues____.html

I'd play it safe and use graphite-free anti-seize

 

[BradMacc82]

http://primaryweapons.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=214 This is an option and it helps with carrier tilt on piston uppers Forgive me Chad! You can find these cheaper

I honestly thought about recommending that to him earlier myself, but I figured he was trying to get ahold of Chad first.

I have one on my lower for that piston upper I have, makes life a lot easier, and 2 qd sockets doesn't hurt either.

 

[clandestine]

You guys are right, the PWS tubes do thread in a little more securely and they work great for D.I. AR15's.

 

[BradMacc82]

You guys are right, the PWS tubes do thread in a little more securely and they work great for D.I. AR15's.

I got to thank you for putting me onto them back when I first joined MDS (), I'd still be running a factory tube and probably would have had to replace it already from the very slight tilt that mine has w/out the PWS on there.

 

[X-Factor]

Play/twist in the buffer tube/stock due to the castle nut not staked/loctited. I definitely diagnosed it correctly, just need to FIX it now.

 

[Numidian]

Play/twist in the buffer tube/stock due to the castle nut not staked/loctited. I definitely diagnosed it correctly, just need to FIX it now.

So what you're saying is the castle nut worked loose? Do you have an armorer's wrench, a hammer and a punch(or even a screwdriver)? Crank it down tight and stake it.

This stuff isn't rocket surgery.