Trouble removing G21 trigger with trigger bar

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  • platoonDaddy

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 30, 2011
    4,162
    SouthOfBalto
    Today I started a deep clean of my Gen2 G21, I was unable to remove the trigger with trigger bar. After closer examination the pin for the trigger safety wasn’t seated flush with the trigger. It might be the pin to attach the bar to the trigger, in any event that is the pin that needed reseated. In 20 years deep cleaning Glocks, this is the 1st time I had this issue.

    I ended up putting pressure on the pin to reseat.

    I have a complete 10mm, 45 & 460 Roland upper (slide with RSA & barrel) that I swap out from time to time. Maybe the pressure from the 10 and 460 caused the issue? !

    Any words of wisdom?

    Note attached picture, I have a red line highlighting the pin.
     

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    jef955

    Active Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 26, 2011
    763
    Maryland
    I see two options here.. First replace it, If you don't want to go that route (polishing etc) you can give it a tap to be sure it's fully seated, clean lightly with alcohol (qtip), and fill it in with JB weld Plastic bonder - here's an Amazon link. It matches Glock's polymer perfectly, and it shouldn't ever move again. Lightly wet sand on a bench block if you care to blend it in.

    I have seen this a couple times before on trigger shoes that were swapped out. Fixed them all, and they looked good afterwards..
    Good luck :beer:

    Link won't seem to work but here's the Amazon description :

    J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler Syringe - Black - 25 ml​

     

    platoonDaddy

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 30, 2011
    4,162
    SouthOfBalto
    I see two options here.. First replace it, If you don't want to go that route (polishing etc) you can give it a tap to be sure it's fully seated, clean lightly with alcohol (qtip), and fill it in with JB weld Plastic bonder - here's an Amazon link. It matches Glock's polymer perfectly, and it shouldn't ever move again. Lightly wet sand on a bench block if you care to blend it in.

    I have seen this a couple times before on trigger shoes that were swapped out. Fixed them all, and they looked good afterwards..
    Good luck :beer:

    Link won't seem to work but here's the Amazon description :

    J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler Syringe - Black - 25 ml​


    Thank you for the recommendation, will order 50139 and see what happens…

    Again, thanks
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,741
    Change it out with an Overwatch Precision.
    I've got one of their polydats in all my glocks. I've got a big love affair for them. It is worth while then going for the 1# heavier (counter-intuitively then lighter pull) trigger spring.

    The trigger is a lot crisper with probably about 1/3 reduced length of pull on the trigger. But because of the reduced length of pull, you have a difference in leverage on the striker, which increases pull weight.

    My G21, G21L, and G17 all ring in between 5#1oz to 5#3oz trigger pull with a polydat and 1# reduced pull trigger spring and some polishing on the surfaces of the connector bar as well as a reduced weight safety spring (stock connector weights on all of them). My G34 which has all of that and a 4.5# connector in it, instead, is around 4#7oz with slightly less crisp pull and a hair longer trigger pull distance (but still a lot crisper and shorter than OEM glock).

    My Glock 19 which I carry has a polydat and no other trigger work other than some polishing. I did NOT want to lighten that at all. It comes in at a couple of ounces under 6#, but is extremely crisp.

    My glocks with OE trigger components in there came in 5lb 5oz to 5lb 9oz range with my wheeler trigger gauge.
     

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