Trying to Remove Old Style DPMS Free Float Handguards

[calicojack]

Remember these tubular hand guards from 10+ years ago? I was trying to get this off with a strap wrench and it's a lot of force to the point I am suspicious about doing something wrong. How does this work? Is this a lock collar or does the hand guard just simply unscrew from the barrel nut?? I am thinking this is a lock collar type of design. Have not found a lot on the Internet. Any of you guys ever take one of these off? OBTW I have it on a reaction rod and the rod is in a vice so I have plenty of leverage. Actually, the rubber in the strap wrench was about ready break so I stopped.

 

[calicojack]

From what I have read it is NOT a lock collar. IDK - I will take off the gas block and tube just in case the whole barrel nut starts to spin loose.

 

[jrumann59]

Question what are the materials each are made from?

 

[wilcam47]

Maybe they put loctite on the hand guard?

 

[4g64loser]

While it was not on a dpms rifle, I have seen what I believe to be the same float tube on other rifles. There are three parts to it. The forward tube (female threads), the knurled locking ring/jam nut (female threads), and the barrel nut itself (male threads outside for nut and tube, female threads inside for upper receiver). IIRC, the jam nut is steel. You will need to back the jam nut away from the tube at least a part of a turn. Once this is done, the tube should turn. The purpose of the jam nut is to allow the tube to index with the ventilation ports at nine and three.

Kroil and heat are your friends. Also, find some narrow sacrificial material that will allow you to engage the jam nut. I don't remember specifically but I think I used pieces of brass gibb and a pipe wrench to loosen the jam nut and then a strap wrench bearing on leather or neoprene to remove the tube.

 

[jrumann59]

While it was not on a dpms rifle, I have seen what I believe to be the same float tube on other rifles. There are three parts to it. The forward tube (female threads), the knurled locking ring/jam nut (female threads), and the barrel nut itself (male threads outside for nut and tube, female threads inside for upper receiver). IIRC, the jam nut is steel. You will need to back the jam nut away from the tube at least a part of a turn. Once this is done, the tube should turn. The purpose of the jam nut is to allow the tube to index with the ventilation ports at nine and three.

Kroil and heat are your friends. Also, find some narrow sacrificial material that will allow you to engage the jam nut. I don't remember specifically but I think I used pieces of brass gibb and a pipe wrench to loosen the jam nut and then a strap wrench bearing on leather or neoprene to remove the tube.

Looks like you may be right, there looks to be space below the jamb nut. OP does that space appear to be threaded?

 

[calicojack]

Looks like you may be right, there looks to be space below the jamb nut. OP does that space appear to be threaded?

Yep. Finally got it after a lot of finesse.

 

[4g64loser]

Looks like you may be right, there looks to be space below the jamb nut. OP does that space appear to be threaded?

Viewing on small screen but it appears to be in second photo. This installation is all but identical to what (OG) bushmaster used on their varmint uppers. They also were sold aftermarket.

 

[calicojack]

Viewing on small screen but it appears to be in second photo. This installation is all but identical to what (OG) bushmaster used on their varmint uppers. They also were sold aftermarket.

So this is an old Remington VTR 15, and I guess I was wrong when I said DPMS; probably is Bushmaster.

 

[calicojack]

I am going to use anti-seize this time and rely on the jam nut to keep it tight.

 

[4g64loser]

I am going to use anti-seize this time and rely on the jam nut to keep it tight.

C5A. The copper stuff. Chad will probably merc me for saying that. Definitely use aeroshell on the upper receiver threads if you are removing the actual barrel nut but I suggest the C5A on the float tube/jam nut threads. If loosening worries you, but an external witness mark on the three parts.

 

[jrumann59]

threads appear to be a little boogered. I would agree on something to help keep the handguard threads loose. Anti-seize or a little dot of grease.

 

[4g64loser]

These are actually very good, rigid, float tubes. Pretty cheap in their time, considering what you got. Unfortunately, most OEMs (not just in the gun biz) assemble things like azzholes. I've found red loctite on Remington tenon threads and the torque they put barrels in with is absolutely ungodly. That's just one example. Most of the manufacturers do this same kind of stupid crap. That's why I will no longer recommend any factory bolt rifles. The custom options are becoming price competitive with any quality factory option andas mr whelen said, only accurate rifles are interesting.

In ARs there are still some ok factory offerings but even some in the "better" tiers assemble poorly or have QAQC failures. I've scoped brand new BCM barrels that are absolute garbage (they aren't alone in this). One of the things you are buying when you have Chad or any of the highly reputable builders do your work is proper care and process of assembly.

 

[calicojack]

C5A. The copper stuff. Chad will probably merc me for saying that. Definitely use aeroshell on the upper receiver threads if you are removing the actual barrel nut but I suggest the C5A on the float tube/jam nut threads. If loosening worries you, but an external witness mark on the three parts.

Yep - that's what I did for each.

 

[calicojack]

threads appear to be a little boogered. I would agree on something to help keep the handguard threads loose. Anti-seize or a little dot of grease.

Seem to be ok now - they were a bit rough coming off. I coat it all with anti-seize.

 

[calicojack]

One of the things you are buying when you have Chad or any of the highly reputable builders do your work is proper care and process of assembly.

I did the SOTAR thing back when Chad still used the trailer. My son and I each did an AR. Then I did 2 more after that.
I put the original factory rifile back on this Remington AKA Bushmaster Varmint but with an SLR adjustable gas blocked (dimpled the barrel). Also added a Geissle SSA trigger and some dust cover bling. I bought this rifle before the 2013 ban here in Maryland. [EDIT} OBTW when I brought this back from Bass Pro, I was unpleasantly surprised to find it was a fixed mag California configuarion. Was easy enough to remedy by replacing with a MILSPEC mag release. But Bass Pro, what a shitty thing to do! I have mixed feelings about that place!

 

[calicojack]

Viewing on small screen but it appears to be in second photo. This installation is all but identical to what (OG) bushmaster used on their varmint uppers. They also were sold aftermarket.

This Remmy also had a gas block that was basically an A2 sight tower with the top cut off. I found an old Bushmaster cataolog from 2006 and thier "Predator" rifle had the same gas block and similar hand guards. Bushmaster predator was a 20" barrel rifle length gas, this one is 18"with a middy gas.

 

[outrider58]

 

[calicojack]

Saw this same vid. I was just about ready to try steam when I finally got the thing loose.

 

[outrider58]

Saw this same vid. I was just about ready to try steam when I finally got the thing loose.

Good deal!