I had a red dot on an AR with the same setup - I never really noticed the front sight and I'd tend to think that it would be a non-issue.If I want to add an LVPO to a flat-top AR with an A2 front sight, do I need a riser or will the front sight "disappear?"
If a riser is advisable, how tall does it need to be?
It will disappear at around 3x. Below that, it will be visible.It will disappear.
That's about the right height. It leaves just enough room for a BUIS incase your scope sh!ts the bed.I had a red dot on an AR with the same setup - I never really noticed the front sight and I'd tend to think that it would be a non-issue.
If you're going to mount an LPVO on an AR, you're going to want a mount that brings it up off of the flat top a bit anyway.
I have two ARs with LPVOs on them, and the one with the taller scope mount is actually better because it falls in the line of sight much easier when the rifle is on the shoulder. I have this mount (yes, I realize it's super cheap and not something I should bet my life on, but it works well enough for now) and it's almost the perfect height, even though it seems a bit tall to look at it.
Amazon product ASIN B07G2SM28N
That's about the right height. It leaves just enough room for a BUIS incase your scope sh!ts the bed.
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If you have a range to zero your gun on, I just visually bore sight with my naked eye. That usually gets me on paper at 50 yards. Then I zero from there. Never a need for a laser bore sighter.This configuration is what I ended up doing. PA 1-6x ACSS. I used the Mostrum mount that @trickg linked upthread. In the future, I'll upgrade to some sort of QD mount so that I can utilize my backup irons.
The PA 1-6x ACSS just arrived yesterday. This thing is pretty bouji for an entry level optic. Spare battery stored in the windage knob cap! I got no such love while serving in the Navy so this will take some familiarization time. As you all stated, the front iron is only visible at low power and even then, it's not a problem. I do need to use a laser bore sighter before I take it out though.
People overlook bore-sighting way too much. I laugh anytime I see someone pull out one of those fancy bore lasers (they legitimately have a different POI every single time you chamber them).If you have a range to zero your gun on, I just visually bore sight with my naked eye. That usually gets me on paper at 50 yards. Then I zero from there. Never a need for a laser bore sighter.
I will take off the upper, remove the BCG, and look at a target about 100yds away through the barrel. Then without touching the upper look through the scope. If they are close I'll start putting shots on target at 50. If it is off I'll adjust until the image through the barrel matches the scope somewhat. This will get you on paper then just sight in as normal. Easier and cheaper than a laser bore sight, which I have never used.People overlook bore-sighting way too much. I laugh anytime I see someone pull out one of those fancy bore lasers (they legitimately have a different POI every single time you chamber them).
That's how it's done!I will take off the upper, remove the BCG, and look at a target about 100yds away through the barrel. Then without touching the upper look through the scope. If they are close I'll start putting shots on target at 50. If it is off I'll adjust until the image through the barrel matches the scope somewhat. This will get you on paper then just sight in as normal. Easier and cheaper than a laser bore sight, which I have never used.
It ain't coming off. It's also the fixed gas block.I'd ditch the A2 front sight though.
Ain't coming off? Does that mean you don't want it off, or you tried and couldn't remove it?It ain't coming off. It's also the fixed gas block.
I'm borrowing the laser bore sight. I'm just using it to get me close and save a little ammunition.
Yes, a QD mount is in my future. This was an inexpensive mount to get me running until I find what I like.
Actually, I did remove it because the barrel nut wrench was the closed variety and it wouldn't fit over the A2 sight when I assembled the rifle. The sight and the gas block are one piece. I'd have to buy another gas block (I guess?) without the sight.Ain't coming off? Does that mean you don't want it off, or you tried and couldn't remove it?
I'm good either way, just curious.
Actually, I did remove it because the barrel nut wrench was the closed variety and it wouldn't fit over the A2 sight when I assembled the rifle. The sight and the gas block are one piece. I'd have to buy another gas block (I guess?) without the sight.
But I also don't want it off. I ordered this barrel for a reason. Personal preference.
You can cut the sight off and Dremel down the block to be smooth. Works well on pinned blocks people don't want to remove. Or just spend ten bucks on another gas block.Actually, I did remove it because the barrel nut wrench was the closed variety and it wouldn't fit over the A2 sight when I assembled the rifle. The sight and the gas block are one piece. I'd have to buy another gas block (I guess?) without the sight.
But I also don't want it off. I ordered this barrel for a reason. Personal preference.
LOLYou can cut the sight off and Dremel down the block to be smooth. Works well on pinned blocks people don't want to remove. Or just spend ten bucks on another gas block.
Ok, your post intrigued me. For the learning experience, I did this last night. I pulled the upper off and clamped it in a gun vise and sighted down the bore, then looked through the scope and made adjustments. I just used an imperfection in the drywall as my target. Elevation was way high but windage was very close.People overlook bore-sighting way too much. I laugh anytime I see someone pull out one of those fancy bore lasers (they legitimately have a different POI every single time you chamber them).
You need to do this with some form of target(a door know across the street, etc) at at least 50 yards distant for this to work best.Ok, your post intrigued me. For the learning experience, I did this last night. I pulled the upper off and clamped it in a gun vise and sighted down the bore, then looked through the scope and made adjustments. I just used an imperfection in the drywall as my target. Elevation was way high but windage was very close.
I'm still borrowing the bore laser today (it's not like it's costing me anything) and I'll see how far off I am. The bore laser I'm borrowing is not a snap-cap with a laser that you chamber. It screws into the muzzle. All you have to do to verify that it's true, is rotate the laser in the muzzle and watch the target. If the laser traces a circle, it's not properly aligned. The dot should remain stationary while spinning the laser.
The high power range I use is closed for repairs so I've got nothing but time on my hands to tinker with this.
I might be able to sit in my garage and use a tree in my yard or put a vehicle at the end of the driveway as a target. I'm not pointing anything at a neighbor's house.You need to do this with some form of target(a door know across the street, etc) at at least 50 yards distant for this to work best.
You are 'shooting' for a 50 yard zero, not a 5' zero.
Whatever works. I'm not saying sit on your front porch and aim your gun at your neighbor's house. LolI might be able to sit in my garage and use a tree in my yard or put a vehicle at the end of the driveway as a target. I'm not pointing anything at a neighbor's house.