New 10/22 takedown

[tjdreams]

Thanks to the guys at Gun Connection for getting me setup with a scope and quick release mounts.
I finally got the chance to take my 10/22 takedown out to the range
At first I was having trouble keeping zero after each takedown and reassembly.
But after a few hours practice
firing 5 shots then removing the scope taking her down and re-assembling well they say pictures speak volumes

 

[lax]

Cool dave. Nice piece.

 

[Mooseman]

I shot mine for the second time today. The first time I shot 100 rounds at 100 yards with the iron sights. I was impressed. Today I shot 100 rounds at 50 yards with the iron sights. Still impressed. I think the gun will out shoot me.

 

[smores]

The TakeDown will certainly make cleaning MUCH easier.

THIS! I came on here to post pics of the one I got (with some other info), and liked your comment. I was sold on this thing as a compact package I can carry around discreetly (after I cover the Ruger emblem), but missed that important point. One of the biggest gripes from people is there's no way to clean a 10/22 properly with a cleaning rod without drilling a hole in the rear of the receiver, and even then you have to strip the receiver group from the stock. Now you can simply remove the barrel and you have full, easy access to cleaning it with your rod! I never had a 10/22 before because it never really seemed to fill a need for me. This is something cool for camping, "Bug-Out Kit" material, and even discreetly carrying your rifle to and from the range in urban areas or in an apt. building, etc.

There was a post above where someone complained of a loose fit between the barrel and receiver... you can adjust the tension between the two assemblies by that knurled ring in front of the receiver. You can make it REAL tight if you want (advisable if you're using a scope) but with iron sights you really don't need to worry about it...

Anyway, here goes my mini first-impression review:

This thing is sick. It doesn't need to be elaborated on, the 10/22 is probably the best and most popular .22 semi-auto rifle ever made. This setup makes it even better. Couple that with the new Ruger BX-25 mags, and it really becomes an attractive package. No more crappy Butler Creek, Pro-Mag or Ram-Line mags that don't work worth a damn. Finally a reliable 25-round mag is available for plinkers or small game hunters (if legal?). I'm not a fan of the TAPCO or Butler Creek stocks available, they always felt cheesy. Sure the Ruger stock is simple, but it seems to be very sturdy and well-designed. Classic lines. Really I think I'll leave it alone until someone like Magpul makes a badass stock set for it, which I doubt will ever happen lol.

So anyway, I know this is slightly sad, but I thought another big deal with this rifle is the bag it comes with. Sure, transporting the 10/22 discreetly, or leaving it in your truck/car in a compact form is neat. But I also have a short-barreled AR-15 and a suppressor... and got to thinking... hey my AR is about the same size, I bet I can fit it in the same bag." Well, I can say I'm happy with my purchase so far. Until I hit the range and test it out, here are some pics for anyone interested:

Sorry for the crappy pics... but in the bottom picture, I have my complete SBR, and suppressor inside the bag. 2 PMAGs in the front lower pocket, Glock 19 and aimpoint in the top pocket with the Ruger emblem. The kittens approve, and I agree with them that this setup is freaking awesome. Can't wait to go shoot it!

 

[coynedogg]

I love Ruger but just don't see the advantage this offers over a folding stock (like a Butler Creek)?

Shouldn't a "Survival Rifle" focus on reduced weight as well as size?

Seems like a .920 15oz tactical solutions barrel + a folding stock would be a better upgrade than being able to break the rifle down?

There are aluminum, carbon fiber, and other options I am sure.

The other thing I would want if it were a "survival" rifle would be upgraded iron sigts. Like Tech Sights or NDS.

 

[pop-gunner]

Well I finally took mine to the range this week.
Standard 10/22TD from Bass Pro Shops for $330.00
House brand Redhead 4x scope set in Redhead QD rings.
After a couple hundred rounds just screwing around and getting the gun broken in a bit and the scope zeroed-ish at 50 yards.....
I set a 5 spot target at 50 yards and loaded 5, 10 round magazines.
The 4 power scope while clear did not offer me the magnification I need to stack one round on top of the other at 50 yards with such a light rifle but...
I fired 10 shots semi-quickly using my range bag as a rest, took the scope off, took the gun apart, picked up the Leupold binos. and looked at the target.
Federal bulk 525 (or some number like that) champion bulk carton and 10 holes I could cover with a half dollar.
I put the scope back on, and the rifle back together and repeated this 4 more times.
5 ten shot groups with a complete disassemble between each group shows me a few things.
1) This rifle is friggin cool.
2) I need less coffee and a better scope to see this guns potential.
3) Given my capabilities this rifle and scope combo in my hands that day it will shoot a 2 inch group at 50 yards after multiple take-downs, and assemblies.
I own a bunch of .22 rifles and at least a dozen take-downs going back to the late 1900s.
I have never seen a take-down design like this that is not only accurate as new, but is adjustable so that as parts wear over time you can adjust the tension on the barrel to keep a snug fit and thus accurate gun for many years.

 

[smores]

I love Ruger but just don't see the advantage this offers over a folding stock (like a Butler Creek)?

Shouldn't a "Survival Rifle" focus on reduced weight as well as size?

Seems like a .920 15oz tactical solutions barrel + a folding stock would be a better upgrade than being able to break the rifle down?

There are aluminum, carbon fiber, and other options I am sure.

The other thing I would want if it were a "survival" rifle would be upgraded iron sigts. Like Tech Sights or NDS.

I think the biggest thing here is the ability to clean the barrel properly with a cleaning rod without having to drill a hole in the receiver or remove the receiver/barrel assembly from the stock like on the original 10/22.

"Survival" rifles have always been cruddy IMO. Look at the AR-7. It feels cheap as hell, not easy to manipulate, bulky as hell. Sure the 10/22 takedown comes with a semi-bulky case, but a minimalist design that holds JUST the rifle with one magazine installed, without all the accessories will be available from someone soon, I'm sure. I don't care if the AR-7 floats, it's a hunk of crap. I've seen more than one where the assembly screw has snapped off, making it practically worthless and nearly impossible to repair "in the field".

Aluminum is not lighter than fiber-reinforced polymer if it were the same dimensions of the Ruger stock. Check out my pictures, my AR-15 SBR fits in the Ruger case, so you can get one of those if you want a more solid weapon . Maybe if you designed an aluminum stock as thin as a beer can, it would be lightweight - but how would that hold up? A carbon-fiber hockey stick is $200, I'm sure that Ruger stock didn't cost more than a few bucks to make and is worth no more than $50 retail. Would you buy a "survival" .22 that cost $550? Look at all of Ruger's most popular offerings... they're all budget guns.

 

[AliasNeo07]

How do you guys like the durability of these things?

My current 10/22 was something i snagged at bass pro years ago and after hundreds of rounds the underside area where the mag goes in and everything is peeling. whatever finish is in there is peeling off, etc. It's really irritating and gross and i'm hoping it doesn't induce a malfunction.

Is this thing 100% stainless? Like the magwell, chamber, and bolt areas are all stainless, so there is no chance of this nastiness happening with this rifle?

Im on vacation in Vermont and I couldn't find a 10/22 takedown anywhere in MD. Here i am in the green mountains and I stop in a gunshop and BAM. 299 for a used one 329 for a new one.

What do you guys think?

Putting the scope on and off or taking the barrel off the receiver and putting it back on and having a repeatable zero is important to me. If this shift is less than 1.5 inches at 50 yards I can live with that if I absolutely must.

 

[smores]

How do you guys like the durability of these things?

My current 10/22 was something i snagged at bass pro years ago and after hundreds of rounds the underside area where the mag goes in and everything is peeling. whatever finish is in there is peeling off, etc. It's really irritating and gross and i'm hoping it doesn't induce a malfunction.

Is this thing 100% stainless? Like the magwell, chamber, and bolt areas are all stainless, so there is no chance of this nastiness happening with this rifle?

Im on vacation in Vermont and I couldn't find a 10/22 takedown anywhere in MD. Here i am in the green mountains and I stop in a gunshop and BAM. 299 for a used one 329 for a new one.

What do you guys think?

Putting the scope on and off or taking the barrel off the receiver and putting it back on and having a repeatable zero is important to me. If this shift is less than 1.5 inches at 50 yards I can live with that if I absolutely must.

It does seem like the bolt is plated. If it's flaking, I would contact Ruger. Stainless has a tendency to gall but actual flaking indicates a plated finish such as nickel.

I'm doing a range trip tonight (leaving in 10 mins lol) so I'll post up what I think. If I have time I'll burn through at least a couple hundred rounds. I will definitely try the fire a group takedown/reassemble routine and see what results I get. I'm only shooting iron sights as I don't have a rimfire scope and don't plan on putting one on. An inexpensive red-dot may find its way on here eventually though... stay tuned.

 

[AliasNeo07]

It does seem like the bolt is plated. If it's flaking, I would contact Ruger. Stainless has a tendency to gall but actual flaking indicates a plated finish such as nickel.

I'm doing a range trip tonight (leaving in 10 mins lol) so I'll post up what I think. If I have time I'll burn through at least a couple hundred rounds. I will definitely try the fire a group takedown/reassemble routine and see what results I get. I'm only shooting iron sights as I don't have a rimfire scope and don't plan on putting one on. An inexpensive red-dot may find its way on here eventually though... stay tuned.

I don't mean my stainless one was flaking; I don't have a stainless one. I mean my...well...I wouldn't call it blued. But I guess it is. The receiver area I guess after about 700 rounds...started to flake off bit by bit and when I clean it I get little bits of whatever it is. I'm just wondering if that will be the case with this thing. If not, I think I'm gonna have to snag one.

I will wait for your range report. I'm here till tuesday so I have till then to buy it (unless someone snags it first) Thanks, I look forward to hearing your results!!

 

[smores]

I don't mean my stainless one was flaking; I don't have a stainless one. I mean my...well...I wouldn't call it blued. But I guess it is. The receiver area I guess after about 700 rounds...started to flake off bit by bit and when I clean it I get little bits of whatever it is. I'm just wondering if that will be the case with this thing. If not, I think I'm gonna have to snag one.

I will wait for your range report. I'm here till tuesday so I have till then to buy it (unless someone snags it first) Thanks, I look forward to hearing your results!!

The receivers are aluminum, and are painted. It's going to wear when it's fired. No big deal, pick out the flakes/rubbed off paint and keep shooting.

Range report below:




I took the rifle to the NRA HQ range last night. The ammunition fired was American Eagle .22 copper plated ammo. I can't find it online, it was not hollowpoint, probably 38 or 40 grain. Before firing the rifle, I pulled my boresnake through it once, and put a couple drops of Slip2000 EWL between the bolt and receiver, and on the recoil spring guide.

On the top two targets, I fired 5 rounds at each bullseye from the 10-round rotary magazine. Rifle rested on a couple sandbags, I was kneeling. Distance was 25 yards, with iron sights. First group (top left) = 1.080". Second group (top right) = 0.945".

For the bottom two targets, I fired 10 rounds each from the 25-round BX-25 magazines. I could not rest the rifle low enough to use the sandbags, so the BX-25 was used as a kind of modified monopod. First group (bottom left) = 1.328". Second group (bottom right) = 2.339". I strung one shot high because one of the people I was shooting with tapped me on the shoulder...

For the center target, I fired a full 10-round rotary magazine, loading rounds from one of the small boxes in the value pack. I then broke down/reassembled the rifle 10 times, loaded 10 rounds into the BX-25 magazine from another small box in the value pack picked at random (which allowed the barrel to cool slightly) then fired them at the center as well. Center group (20 rounds) = 1.794"

All shots were fired using US Army marksmanship fundamentals, firing during the pause between breaths. Not rapid fire but not slow fire either. I'm sure with a more comfortable bench and finding the most accurate round for this barrel (or even going to a scope) would tighten the groups up a bit. Also, the crown looks a little screwy to me... I may recut it myself and see what happens. Hope this is helpful!

 

[Gunny1]

"....you can adjust the tension between the two assemblies by that knurled ring in front of the receiver. You can make it REAL tight if you want (advisable if you're using a scope)"

How?

 

[AliasNeo07]

"....you can adjust the tension between the two assemblies by that knurled ring in front of the receiver. You can make it REAL tight if you want (advisable if you're using a scope)"

How?

The receivers are aluminum, and are painted. It's going to wear when it's fired. No big deal, pick out the flakes/rubbed off paint and keep shooting.

Range report below:




I took the rifle to the NRA HQ range last night. The ammunition fired was American Eagle .22 copper plated ammo. I can't find it online, it was not hollowpoint, probably 38 or 40 grain. Before firing the rifle, I pulled my boresnake through it once, and put a couple drops of Slip2000 EWL between the bolt and receiver, and on the recoil spring guide.

On the top two targets, I fired 5 rounds at each bullseye from the 10-round rotary magazine. Rifle rested on a couple sandbags, I was kneeling. Distance was 25 yards, with iron sights. First group (top left) = 1.080". Second group (top right) = 0.945".

For the bottom two targets, I fired 10 rounds each from the 25-round BX-25 magazines. I could not rest the rifle low enough to use the sandbags, so the BX-25 was used as a kind of modified monopod. First group (bottom left) = 1.328". Second group (bottom right) = 2.339". I strung one shot high because one of the people I was shooting with tapped me on the shoulder...

For the center target, I fired a full 10-round rotary magazine, loading rounds from one of the small boxes in the value pack. I then broke down/reassembled the rifle 10 times, loaded 10 rounds into the BX-25 magazine from another small box in the value pack picked at random (which allowed the barrel to cool slightly) then fired them at the center as well. Center group (20 rounds) = 1.794"

All shots were fired using US Army marksmanship fundamentals, firing during the pause between breaths. Not rapid fire but not slow fire either. I'm sure with a more comfortable bench and finding the most accurate round for this barrel (or even going to a scope) would tighten the groups up a bit. Also, the crown looks a little screwy to me... I may recut it myself and see what happens. Hope this is helpful!

What do you mean the crown looks funny?

 

[smores]

"....you can adjust the tension between the two assemblies by that knurled ring in front of the receiver. You can make it REAL tight if you want (advisable if you're using a scope)"

How?

Couldn't find a video on it, but there's a ring that's knurled with straight knurling (like the edge of a quarter) up against the front edge of the receiver. It allows you to tighten or loosen the fit between the barrel and receiver. I haven't taken it apart but I assume the ring has a stud that rotates side to side in an angled groove in the collar that mates with the rear shoulder of the barrel. I messed with it, and by loosening it, the barrel/receiver fit rattled slightly, then tightened it until it had a drag fit until the pieces clicked together. I backed it off one click back from there for ease of takedown. The ring is held in position by a detent and spring, you need no tools to adjust it.

What do you mean the crown looks funny?

I've seen a lot of crowns, cut ones on new barrels and re-faced jacked up ones. Since the crown is the last place the bullet touches the barrel, any defects or error in cutting it can affect the bullet's flight. I only have my cell phone to take pictures so I couldn't get a detailed macro image. Basically the crown was likely cut with a crowning reamer (the quick & dirty way), but the cutter wasn't piloted or aligned with the bore. While I understand this is not a target rifle I know how to cut a proper target or even 60-deg crown for better performance.

My particular crown appears to have been cut at an angle, meaning the bevel is deeper on one side than the other. The gas venting around the bullet as it leaves the muzzle will jet unevenly. I did not attempt to adjust the sights, but as you see my first few groups were a little to the right, and as it dirtied up seemed to shoot more to point of aim. A properly cut crown should reduce/eliminate that inconsistency. I won't send it back to Ruger, as these are mass produced guns. I'm a gunsmith, I can make it right! lol

But still, these are fairly impressive. The Ruger sights aren't bad at all. This thing will be coming with me to the range every time from now on.

 

[AliasNeo07]

Couldn't find a video on it, but there's a ring that's knurled with straight knurling (like the edge of a quarter) up against the front edge of the receiver. It allows you to tighten or loosen the fit between the barrel and receiver. I haven't taken it apart but I assume the ring has a stud that rotates side to side in an angled groove in the collar that mates with the rear shoulder of the barrel. I messed with it, and by loosening it, the barrel/receiver fit rattled slightly, then tightened it until it had a drag fit until the pieces clicked together. I backed it off one click back from there for ease of takedown. The ring is held in position by a detent and spring, you need no tools to adjust it.



I've seen a lot of crowns, cut ones on new barrels and re-faced jacked up ones. Since the crown is the last place the bullet touches the barrel, any defects or error in cutting it can affect the bullet's flight. I only have my cell phone to take pictures so I couldn't get a detailed macro image. Basically the crown was likely cut with a crowning reamer (the quick & dirty way), but the cutter wasn't piloted or aligned with the bore. While I understand this is not a target rifle I know how to cut a proper target or even 60-deg crown for better performance.

My particular crown appears to have been cut at an angle, meaning the bevel is deeper on one side than the other. The gas venting around the bullet as it leaves the muzzle will jet unevenly. I did not attempt to adjust the sights, but as you see my first few groups were a little to the right, and as it dirtied up seemed to shoot more to point of aim. A properly cut crown should reduce/eliminate that inconsistency. I won't send it back to Ruger, as these are mass produced guns. I'm a gunsmith, I can make it right! lol

But still, these are fairly impressive. The Ruger sights aren't bad at all. This thing will be coming with me to the range every time from now on.

Ah. Thanks for the explanation.

In the event of someone needing to recrown theirs....is it an expensive proposition?

 

[smores]

Ah. Thanks for the explanation.

In the event of someone needing to recrown theirs....is it an expensive proposition?

Really shouldn't be. Probably $50-60 or so, if that. Then again it always depends on the shop. However I haven't taken the forend off this thing, don't know how easy it is to get down to just the barrel in order to chuck it in the lathe.

 

[AliasNeo07]

Picked up one of these yesterday. None of the IPs had any and I sort of wanted this asap cause I'm going camping. It was sort of funny...my fiance and I were driving back from our vacation in Vermont and after finding out none of the IPs had one...I was like "Fu** it lets call every gun shop along the route home." Kept striking out. Nothing in VT, NH, Mass, NJ, Del. Finally called some place in CT..."Yeah we have about 5 of them. $299." SWEET! Then he says "Just come in and fill out the paperwork and after 14 days you can come back to pick it up."

LOL. No. I didn't know it but CT has a 14 day waiting period for ALL FIREARMS unless you have a valid hunters license or a CCW permit.

Anyway...ended up finding one at Targetmaster in PA. REALLY cool shop...good prices on everything...and a LOT of rental guns.

Anyway, $350 OTD for a NIB 10/22 Takedown and 200 rds of CCI Minimags. Not bad.

Now I need to play with that retaining ring, and then find a good scope setup. Maybe something like a 1.5-4....

 

[AliasNeo07]

Took it out to delmarva today (miserable day...so hot) put about 160 rds through it...some mini mag solid point some federal bulk. No malfunctions of any kind, both with 10 rd mags and BX-25 mags.

The sights were off...it shot right by about 3-4 inches at 50 yards. I didn't bother adjusting them it was just too hot.

This is also my first experience with iron sights on a 10/22...the rear sight looks like a bitc* to adjust. How do you adjust for left-right...drift the front sight with a punch?

Also, the sight picture is a little tricky. It's like a notch within a notch for the rear sight. Weird.