+1 on Bob, I have had him do work on a civil war rifle barrel re lining the inside. 'Was highly recommended by the NSSA folksMaybe, used this guy to reline a Smith Carbine, Robert Hoyt, Fairfield, PA 717-642-6696. He does lots of muzzle and breech loading military barrels. It is best to call early in the AM.
Why not just reload the .43 Spanish?
Maybe, used this guy to reline a Smith Carbine, Robert Hoyt, Fairfield, PA 717-642-6696. He does lots of muzzle and breech loading military barrels. It is best to call early in the AM.
Why not just reload the .43 Spanish?
Like the others have said, he’s not in the area you were wanting, but Bobby does great work. Not sure how long his backlog is, but give him a call. He’s relined and rebarreled several rifles for me over the years. All shoot excellent!Contact Hoyt in PA near Gettysburg
+1 on Bob, I have had him do work on a civil war rifle barrel re lining the inside. 'Was highly recommended by the NSSA folks
He had an apprentice a couple years go so he may not be doing 100% of the work anymore, not sure.
My carbine was originally in .43 Spanish, and if it still was, I would keep it that way. But it was arsenal modified to .43 Spanish Reformado. Cases, dies, even correct bullets are not commercially available. It is not a simple reloading procedure. Cases have to go through numerous steps of modification from already scarce parent brass. No one offers proper dies.Maybe, used this guy to reline a Smith Carbine, Robert Hoyt, Fairfield, PA 717-642-6696. He does lots of muzzle and breech loading military barrels. It is best to call early in the AM.
Why not just reload the .43 Spanish?
I think that is his daughter. I was just speaking to someone about Bobby and he said his daughter was taking over the business.Contact Hoyt in PA near Gettysburg
+1 on Bob, I have had him do work on a civil war rifle barrel re lining the inside. 'Was highly recommended by the NSSA folks
He had an apprentice a couple years go so he may not be doing 100% of the work anymore, not sure.
That is what Bobby Hoyt does best.After replacing pins, springs, and screws, I have not yet tackled the project of changing a 7mm Mauser RBB to 45-70 or ??? I experimented with grinding lathe tools and cutting test threads, with limited success, and put it on the back burner for a while. There are barrell blanks out there which require the machining outlined above. At this point, I think drilling, relining, and re-chambering the original barrel may be the easiest path for me at least.
I think it's actually his niece. But his shop is apparently not taking on any new work right now until after March due to backlog.I think that is his daughter. I was just speaking to someone about Bobby and he said his daughter was taking over the business.
You are largely correct. Without actual specific theads spcifications to which you refer, I think what your personal references are referring to in the world of industrial threads are "Acme" threads, or some similar variant. These are the "square" threads which are used in the lead screws in machinery which are designed to minimise backlash. All of these varients of square threads are notorius to make from scratch. Atlas was standardized upon for modern machinery and is readily available as all-thread, nuts etc. The RRB square thread is still more notorius to turn from scratch.I went and checked Rolling block barrel tenons and threads. Mostly my statement was wrong but not entirely. The other poster is more correct, but not to the fullest extent.
Out of the 4 principle actions, 5 including Remington Hepburn, some have v type but they are mostly square dependent on era and number of the action. (DeHaas books for which I maintain some of them, is the source)
For cutting square threads I checked with a machinist who cuts them for which apparently they are still used for industrial applications like complex valve arrangements for travel that are 36" + long and used in specialized environments.
The threads rely on tension against themselves and should have a clearance factor for the height in opposition to their opposing surface or they will bind and or twist the material they are being threaded into. ( Think like cracked M17 JA and Avis replacement barrels)
Vickery's book goes into some detail for how to cut them as well as create the tooling but is vague to some extent, however other information is available for someone who is interested some of which I keep as well if anyone wanted to see it.
Same guy makes Krag barrels for me from take off SA barrels.You are largely correct. Without actual specific theads spcifications to which you refer, I think what your personal references are referring to in the world of industrial threads are "Acme" threads, or some similar variant. These are the "square" threads which are used in the lead screws in machinery which are designed to minimise backlash. All of these varients of square threads are notorius to make from scratch. Atlas was standardized upon for modern machinery and is readily available as all-thread, nuts etc. The RRB square thread is still more notorius to turn from scratch.
No arguement at all; it is not a matter of any competent machinist being able to cut them or not. I am saying that the RRB square thread itself is a challenge for anyone not well versed in cutting that specific type of threads; they once were common, and people familiar with them and able to do them as a matter of course, are aging out. The vaguaries you refer to are the things which make it difficult. Basically, it the lack of any "relief" on the threads (pitch, depth, or width) and the importance of absolutely correct "timing" on the lathe on each pass of thread cutting. A good, experienced machinist can do this with the right lathe and hand made cutting tool. The issue is these threads are somewhat uncommon today and may not be something a run of the mill shop cannot do on a vintage part without a practice run or so.Same guy makes Krag barrels for me from take off SA barrels.
I said earlier, any competent gunsmith/machinist can do this.
So I think I'm largely correct, becuase I use them on some of my guns based on the information I provided him.
I didn't say its easy, but I'm going with the guy who gets paid post handsomely for his work.
What exactly dont you get or what are you thinking or trying to say?
Yes the-yr out there and some people know how to do this sort of work even though its uncommon.No arguement at all; it is not a matter of any competent machinist being able to cut them or not. I am saying that the RRB square thread itself is a challenge for anyone not well versed in cutting that specific type of threads; they once were common, and people familiar with them and able to do them as a matter of course, are aging out. The vaguaries you refer to are the things which make it difficult. Basically, it the lack of any "relief" on the threads (pitch, depth, or width) and the importance of absolutely correct "timing" on the lathe on each pass of thread cutting. A good, experienced machinist can do this with the right lathe and hand made cutting tool. The issue is these threads are somewhat uncommon today and may not be something a run of the mill shop cannot do on a vintage part without a practice run or so.
These production details are why true square cut threads mostly went away over time., strong though they might be.
Thank you for this information.That is what Bobby Hoyt does best.
For the OP, it's a nice ride up to Bobby's house. It is about 10 miles SW of Gettysburg PA. This is his address.
Robert A. Hoyt 700 Fairfield Station Road Fairfield, PA 17320