Should I have my M! Garand checked by a gunsmith prior to firing it?

[scouse]

I recently purchased a vary fine circa 1955 M1 Garand from a very knowledgeable and locally well known collector. It is in very good condition, the action works smoothly and precisely and it appears to be as issued with all serial #'s matching. I was thinking that before I shoot this rifle, I should have it checked and test fired by a gunsmith - am I being overly cautious? any suggestions?

Sorry about the title (M!) - sticky shift key.

 

[Skins_Brew]

You cannot go wrong with getting it checked, but it is more than likely good to go, especially if the guy you bought it from is knowledgeable.

 

[Threeband]

Congratulations on your first Garand! "Today you become a man."

While you're uploading the photos, tell us a little about it. What manufacturer? Springfield? Harrington and Richardson? International Harvester?

Garands only have one serial number, so there's no such thing as "matching". Those other numbers you see are mainly "drawing numbers", which identify the mechanical drawing/blueprint for that specific part, or heat lot codes. Those numbers can help establish a time frame for that part's production. Only the barrel has an actual date, such as "3 55" for March, 1955.

Plug your serial number into this website

http://usriflecal30m1.com/Parts/PartsList.aspx

and it will list the drawing numbers and heat lots for the original parts. You can also search the component list to identify when parts were made.


Most Garands are "mixmasters", with parts from different periods and manufacturers. You may have a 1942 trigger guard on a 1955 receiver. This makes them more interesting, and gives them "mongrel" or "hybrid vigor".


I would just shoot it. Be sure to lube it first. You can use any decent grease: lubriplate or wheel bearing grease, but grease, not oil on sliding parts.

http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-grease

 

[bbrown]

Read all you can find about how to avoid Garand thumb.

 

[good guy 176]

I am not a gunsmith, but I do own many Garands. One critical spec that should be checked is the headspace, but I don't think you'll find but a handful of local smiths who have the gauges to check it for you. Unless the bolt shows a lot of wear, the headspace should be fine. We find very few problems with headspace on a Garand.

Insure that the bore is clear before firing, and that applies to every firearm and each time you intend to fire it. Visually inspect moving parts for excessive wear. Insure that the round chambers fully and that the bolt locking lugs have rotated into the receiver recesses. DO NOT ease the bolt forward; let it slam the round into the chamber.

When firing any firearm for the first time, I point the piece in a safe direction, wear eye and hearing protection and then look away and fire into the impact area a few times.

If you want an armorer/gunsmith to inspect your rifle, I can provide a couple of names of individuals who can inspect your rifle for you.

Lew--Ranger63

 

[scouse]

You cannot go wrong with getting it checked, but it is more than likely good to go, especially if the guy you bought it from is knowledgeable.

Well, here she is...

 

[scouse]

Read all you can find about how to avoid Garand thumb.

That was the first lesson that my guy taught me! So far I have heeded well - but I know....there is always a first time.

 

[Mooseman]

Hell, I'll test fire it for you.

 

[Threeband]

That is a particularly good looking rifle.

Lew (Good Guy) has some good points. Run a function check, as for any semi-auto, and it wouldn't hurt to load a single round the first time. A semi-auto can sometimes go fully auto.

I do a LOT of single-shot shooting from my Garands, and here's my anti-slam-fire technique: instead of loading the single round all the way into the chamber, I insert it only about half-way or so. Then I ease the bolt about halfway forward and release it, letting the bolt slam forward the rest of the way. The idea is that the bolt seating the cartridge that way makes a slam-fire less likely. Maybe one-in-a-billion instead of one-in-a-million. Who knows? Anyway, that's how I do it.

The advice of some experienced shooters when single loading without a clip/mag, calls for easing the op rod about half way or more forward before "lettin' her fly home". Good advice, as bolt velocity will closely replicate that found if loaded via a clip, in a Garand.


http://www.fulton-armory.com/\faqs\AR-FAQs\SlamFire2.htm

Also, get in the habit of working the op-rod handle from underneath, that is with your palm facing up and your fingers hooking up and around from below. That way, if there is a slam fire, your hand won't be behind the violently reciprocating op rod.

 

[scouse]

Good Guy: I bought this from you. You came to my store in Annapolis last October - I'm the Limey. I don't remember if I asked you if you fired it - did you?

 

[scouse]

Hell, I'll test fire it for you.

I bet you would!

 

[Mooseman]

I bet you would!

I'm just a nice guy like that. I have the ammo.

 

[scouse]

Congratulations on your first Garand! "Today you become a man."

While you're uploading the photos, tell us a little about it. What manufacturer? Springfield? Harrington and Richardson? International Harvester?

Garands only have one serial number, so there's no such thing as "matching". Those other numbers you see are mainly "drawing numbers", which identify the mechanical drawing/blueprint for that specific part, or heat lot codes. Those numbers can help establish a time frame for that part's production. Only the barrel has an actual date, such as "3 55" for March, 1955.

Plug your serial number into this website



http://usriflecal30m1.com/Parts/PartsList.aspx

and it will list the drawing numbers and heat lots for the original parts. You can also search the component list to identify when parts were made.


Most Garands are "mixmasters", with parts from different periods and manufacturers. You may have a 1942 trigger guard on a 1955 receiver. This makes them more interesting, and gives them "mongrel" or "hybrid vigor".


I would just shoot it. Be sure to lube it first. You can use any decent grease: lubriplate or wheel bearing grease, but grease, not oil on sliding parts.

http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-grease

Thanks, Threeband. She is a Harrington and Richard #4740*** and, thanks to your links, I find that she was built sometime during 1953. Also thanks to your links I found a wealth of info on the Garand. I had oiled the moving parts but will run out and buy some synthetic grease to do the job properly.

BTW, I bought this from Good guy - and he is just that!

 

[Threeband]

Bring your Garand out to Thurmont next month and try a casual match just for fun.

http://www.tcandsc.org/tcscCMPMatches.htm

 

[scouse]

Congratulations on your first Garand! "Today you become a man."

While you're uploading the photos, tell us a little about it. What manufacturer? Springfield? Harrington and Richardson? International Harvester?

Garands only have one serial number, so there's no such thing as "matching". Those other numbers you see are mainly "drawing numbers", which identify the mechanical drawing/blueprint for that specific part, or heat lot codes. Those numbers can help establish a time frame for that part's production. Only the barrel has an actual date, such as "3 55" for March, 1955.

Plug your serial number into this website

http://usriflecal30m1.com/Parts/PartsList.aspx

and it will list the drawing numbers and heat lots for the original parts. You can also search the component list to identify when parts were made.


Most Garands are "mixmasters", with parts from different periods and manufacturers. You may have a 1942 trigger guard on a 1955 receiver. This makes them more interesting, and gives them "mongrel" or "hybrid vigor".


I would just shoot it. Be sure to lube it first. You can use any decent grease: lubriplate or wheel bearing grease, but grease, not oil on sliding parts.

http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-grease

Thanks for your input, Threeband. Just one more query; I understood that you became a man when you acquired your first 303 Lee Enfield? Just sayin...

Here's one for ya: This was made at the Fazakerly ordinance factory, not 5 miles from where I was born and raised, within days of my 9th birthday. I bought it still wrapped in cosmoline and brown paper and no one but myself and two good friends have ever fired it (about 40 rounds total).

 

[Threeband]

The Rifle Number 4 is the very best manually operated combat rifle anywhere, anytime, ever. I got my first one around 1987 or so.

I got my first Garand in 2007. The Garand is not the best semi-auto combat rifle ever, but:

There is something special about the Garand: there is no other rifle quite like it. When you step up to the line with an M1 Garand, people will turn their heads and take notice. Strong men will respect you. Beautiful women will fall at your feet. The enemies of freedom will flee in dismay.

 

[scouse]

The Rifle Number 4 is the very best manually operated combat rifle anywhere, anytime, ever. I got my first one around 1997 or so.

I got my first Garand in 2007. The Garand is not the best semi-auto combat rifle ever, but:

Yes, There is something quite alluring in the Garand. I think it is a wonderful rifle. I used an SLR (L1A1) in the Royal Marines, which I liked but the Garand has a heft and feel to it that just seems to mean business.

 

[md_al]

Read all you can find about how to avoid Garand thumb.

Youtube video on loading:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GdTKm4eBAs

 

[Threeband]

Garand thumb is almost a myth.

It simply cannot happen while loading the rifle.

It can happen while fooling around with it, if you fail to lock the bolt all the way open. If you open the bolt tentatively and uncertainly, like a nervous schoolgirl, you might leave the bolt held only by the magazine follower instead of the bolt catch. Then if you start fiddling around like an ill-mannered school boy, you might jostle the follower and learn a valuable lesson in gun handling.

It's best to load the rifle with the hand bladed so the back edge of the hand holds the op rod as the thumb presses the clip home, as demonstrated here:

Cigarette is optional. I quit them, myself.

There is an extended discussion on the Myth of Garand Thumb in this thread:
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=166862

 

[scouse]

Garand thumb is almost a myth.

It simply cannot happen while loading the rifle.

It can happen while fooling around with it, if you fail to lock the bolt all the way open. If you open the bolt tentatively and uncertainly, like a nervous schoolgirl, you might leave the bolt held only by the magazine follower instead of the bolt catch. Then if you start fiddling around like an ill-mannered school boy, you might jostle the follower and learn a valuable lesson in gun handling.

It's best to load the rifle with the hand bladed so the back edge of the hand holds the op rod as the thumb presses the clip home, as demonstrated here:

Cigarette is optional. I quit them, myself.

There is an extended discussion on the Myth of Garand Thumb in this thread:
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=166862

He looks like he could have won the battle single handed. Talk about focused!