Enfield No4 Mark 1

[shootnfishndorf]

 

[shootnfishndorf]

Got the first application of linseed oil applied....will complete another application and post some pics. Wife has shoulder surgery this week ...so I've taken the bit off...in-between keeping her drugged up and going to therapy....I will have time to start ordering the hardware to begin the assembly.

 

[shootnfishndorf]

 

[shootnfishndorf]

I applied the bees wax today....will buff it a bit and probably add another round. I started shopping for the hardware (barrel bands)...from looking at the parts I have....I"m stuck now as to what to order. The rifle is a savage make..I believe. But now that I have the furniture...are the wood pieces compatible with Savage bands...or Long Branch bands....I don't know what I have, as they were just pieced together from other sources and not identified as such. Any guidance from the above pictures would be appreciated...as I do not want to start a collection of useless bands and parts as I am not building more than one. Definitely lots of variants. It isnt just "re-building"...but a history lesson as well. Pretty sure I will end up with a mutt that isnt historically correct or particularly beautiful...but as it was intended...a robust tool that played a huge part in history.

 

[shootnfishndorf]

 

[shootnfishndorf]

 

[shootnfishndorf]

Stock needs some fitting

 

[Doco Overboard]

Looks good.
In order to fit the butt stock to the socket, smoke the inside of the socket with candle black real well, insert the stock tenon and remove the blackened wood with a rasp, file or chisle.
Check to see if inside the buttstock that there is a flat steel washer that needs to be placed, then, a lock washer or sprung thackry washer placed on the bolt. There should be a very small gap at the face of the stock exterior to where it meets the socket at the exterior edges.
The bolt should be greased slightly and it needs tightened as much as you can get it.
When fitting, driving the stock from the rear with a large rubber mallet is helpful.
The socket is tapered which is an important point and there will be ledge and opposing surface inside the socket and on the wood tenon that need to be tightly fit.
If everything goes right, the face of the tenon should bear evenly on the flat opposing surface of the socket with a small gap around the exterior as mentioned earlier. There are also two forms for how the lug on the tenon interacts with the socket. Year of manufacturing, maker and component source is what dictates what type of shoulder is required for fitting up.
A loose buttstock will cause lateral dispersion and is a critical accuracy characteristic/ element for the LE system.
It’s also the strongest way to fasten a buttstock to a rifle by using the spoke and hub wagon wheel method.
At the factory they were driven in place through the use of machinery so tightness is the word and having a good screw driver with a broad blade and that is long enough to go through the stock.
How about that finish on the upper handguard?
Nice huh? Too bad they all don’t look like that but plenty rifles and parts still out there to work with yet.
Also looks like your trigger guard rear screw lines right up. A rifle to where that doesn’t happen is not stocked up correctly or as good as it could be. Not often does it always go like that so the timber finish is your compromise.

 

[shootnfishndorf]

Looks good.
In order to fit the butt stock to the socket, smoke the inside of the socket with candle black real well, insert the stock tenon and remove the blackened wood with a rasp, file or chisle.
Check to see if inside the buttstock that there is a flat steel washer that needs to be placed, then, a lock washer or sprung thackry washer placed on the bolt. There should be a very small gap at the face of the stock exterior to where it meets the socket at the exterior edges.
The bolt should be greased slightly and it needs tightened as much as you can get it.
When fitting, driving the stock from the rear with a large rubber mallet is helpful.
The socket is tapered which is an important point and there will be ledge and opposing surface inside the socket and on the wood tenon that need to be tightly fit.
If everything goes right, the face of the tenon should bear evenly on the flat opposing surface of the socket with a small gap around the exterior as mentioned earlier. There are also two forms for how the lug on the tenon interacts with the socket. Year of manufacturing, maker and component source is what dictates what type of shoulder is required for fitting up.
A loose buttstock will cause lateral dispersion and is a critical accuracy characteristic/ element for the LE system.
It’s also the strongest way to fasten a buttstock to a rifle by using the spoke and hub wagon wheel method.
At the factory they were driven in place through the use of machinery so tightness is the word and having a good screw driver with a broad blade and that is long enough to go through the stock.
How about that finish on the upper handguard?
Nice huh? Too bad they all don’t look like that but plenty rifles and parts still out there to work with yet.
Also looks like your trigger guard rear screw lines right up. A rifle to where that doesn’t happen is not stocked up correctly or as good as it could be. Not often does it always go like that so the timber finish is your compromise.

Thank you. When I was dry fitting it, there was no washer in the stock, or anywhere else...I will remedy that and get the markings on the stock of the rub points. Yes, that handguard is a beauty for sure....I doubt I will be chasing a matching set. I just want to get this one back to wood.

 

[Doco Overboard]

Sometimes that flat washer is set into the stock.
Drop a screwdriver in there and rattle it around to see if you can hear it.
Sometimes you can see it if its still brite with a good lite.
Any flat washer will do but its an oddball diameter so you have to grind one.
An ordinary washer will work to for the lock washer too but you have to drill one to fit the diameter of the stock bolt and hole in the stock more than likely.

 

[shootnfishndorf]

Sometimes that flat washer is set into the stock.
Drop a screwdriver in there and rattle it around to see if you can hear it.
Sometimes you can see it if its still brite with a good lite.
Any flat washer will do but its an oddball diameter so you have to grind one.
An ordinary washer will work to for the lock washer too but you have to drill one to fit the diameter of the stock bolt and hole in the stock more than likely.

Good stuff. Thank you. I have some washers, a drill press and a couple off grinding options. With the rain tomorrow, I have a time occupied....I have the barrel bands in the online shopping cart...bands from one site...screws from another...hard to find a complete set that they aren't asking triple the cost...but, it's what it is.

 

[Doco Overboard]

Good stuff. Thank you. I have some washers, a drill press and a couple off grinding options. With the rain tomorrow, I have a time occupied....I have the barrel bands in the online shopping cart...bands from one site...screws from another...hard to find a complete set that they aren't asking triple the cost...but, it's what it is.

Savage and any No 4 parts used to be easy to source but the last few years things are beginning to tighten up. Everything for these old guns as a matter of fact it's not what is used to be for sure.
Its worth it though, even if everything isn't perfect for manufacture and things like that I dont worry about things like that too much anymore.
You cant put a price on the enjoyment and satisfaction if you ask me.

 

[shootnfishndorf]

The stock is attached. I had a lock washer that needed some persuasion with a vise, a screwdriver and hammer, and then some grinding...but I worked it steadily until it fit around the bolt and inside the stock...same for the flat washer. I placed the stock on, then removed it, looking for the shiny contact points....then I'd gently remove them. With enough socket extensions, I had a long sturdy screwdriver to apply some ooomph to tighten it all down. It looks good. I ordered the bands that I could find in stock from SARCO....but of course no screws....another issue that will be addressed later ...I have a bolt on piece that allows a scope mount...as I had a cheap scope mounted with the nylon stock....if I go that route again, I'd like a more period relevant scope, not necessarily authentic, Because of the price, but more aesthetically pleasing...a skinny 4x....if I can't find something that looks decent, I guess I source the original sights. I searched through my gear and couldn't find the original. The younger sillier me must have discarded them when I replaced the stock the first time. Any thoughts on adding an optic or just go with the original irons?

 

[Clovis]

As far as your sights on the rifle, if your not older, the original sights will work well and can be kinda fun. Just my opinion for what that's worth.

 

[Doco Overboard]

If you used a No 5 rear micrometer backsight, because of the sight radius on a no 4 it should give something like half minute click value.
The no 5 backsight has a slightly courser thread count on the elevation screw.
The graduations on the slide are to 800 vs 1300 on the no 4.
The reason I mention a no 5 sight is because they are usually easier to source but all of them are becoming scarce and costlier as time goes by.
I would try it with the scope too but prefer the open sights for shooting reasonable distances or for what most ranges can accommodate.
Century used to have a pile of Savage/No 4 parts that I think came from a supplier from PA when they went out of business a few years ago.

Parts & Accessories - Surplus Corner

Century Arms

store.centuryarms.com

I keep wanting to say S&s sprters but thats not It. I can t recall at this time but hey were loaded to the gills with British rifle parts at one time.

 

[shootnfishndorf]

Looking for something like this...while not historically accurate, but I think it would compliment it ...this model has the post style reticle...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3053233970...xoe2OzhT-W&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Doco Overboard]

I would look for an old weaver with a 1" tube.
A 330 has .750 diameter which may be a chore to find rings for but spacers/inserts could be found.
Also a cheek riser would be a great help with placing optics on a no 4.
The line of sight is so high above the bore you need to build up the butt-stock for good contact at the comb of the stock.
You may find its easier to shoot with the aperture backsight than fidgeting with a scope and the total cost involved would be less overall. And the scope bits could be retained if you wanted to go back and forth.
If you wanted to deer shoot or hunt in the twilight or early morning a scope set up is obviously an advantage but for target shooting normal distances,say 1 to 2 hundred yards in good light the irons are just as good and completely reliable in addition to making the rifle complete.

 

[shootnfishndorf]

Been in and out for travel...had the bands delivered...haven't sourced the screw yet for the front barrel band (one piece). The rear band, the thinnest, do I need to tap the front sight off to get it installed, or just "force" it over?

 

[Doco Overboard]

Going by memory here but with the front handguard removed it should just fit over.
It may have a screw that tensions the sight blade that’s easy enough to loosen which will allow it slide clear.
Otherwise if it’s the press fit type and clearance is not enough you can drift it right off.

 

[shootnfishndorf]

Going by memory here but with the front handguard removed it should just fit over.
It may have a screw that tensions the sight blade that’s easy enough to loosen which will allow it slide clear.
Otherwise if it’s the press fit type and clearance is not enough you can drift it right off.

Thank you. Whether it is blasphemous or not, I quickly re-tapped the barrel band to 10-24 (Because they are on hand and plentiful) and ordered a rear sight from numritch. I'm ready for assembly!!!!